Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates as a formidable antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, adeptly neutralizing free radicals and soothing irritation. A key mechanism involves significantly increasing levels of cytoglobin (CYGB), an essential oxygen-binding protein within skin cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes). This elevation optimizes cellular oxidative stress management, critically improving both collagen and elastin synthesis. Consequently, skin cells exhibit enhanced oxygenation, contributing to superior surface homogeneity, a more radiant appearance, and a healthier glow. Furthermore, it strengthens the skin barrier, aids in detoxification, regulates sebum, and provides protection against environmentally induced stressors such as blue light.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 A US study published in Cosmetics journal, involving collaborations with Stanford University, Kyoto University, Buck Institute for Research on Aging, and LVMH Recherche, demonstrated that a 0.5% concentration effectively increased cytoglobin (CYGB) levels in human skin cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes). This cellular response helps manage oxidative stress, supports collagen and elastin production, and enhances immune cell activity, thereby offering significant potential in mitigating signs of skin aging.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Typically provided in a water and glycerin solution, this extract's phenolic components are readily water-soluble. Optimal stability is maintained within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.0, with a formulated pH of 5.5 proving suitable for topical application. However, under neutral pH conditions, the hydrolysis of benzyl glucosinolate may occur, yielding benzyl isothiocyanate (BITC), which is prone to degradation by temperature fluctuations and prolonged processing, potentially affecting product aesthetics.
Conflicts
- May trigger allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to plants from the Brassicaceae family.
- Glucosinolate degradation products can impart a sulfurous odor and pungent, bitter taste, particularly at higher concentrations, which is a consideration for product aesthetics.
Safety
Safety Profile
While generally regarded as safe for cosmetic applications and compliant with both European and US regulations, a specific CIR review or SCCS opinion has not been identified. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) Skin Deep database assigns a 'LOW' hazard rating for cancer and immunotoxicity, and 'LOW_MODERATE' for developmental and reproductive toxicity, citing some animal studies that show effects at elevated doses.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient that leverages enhanced cellular oxygenation and potent antioxidant capacity to deliver significant anti-aging benefits and improved skin radiance across all skin types.
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