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Moumoujus

TREMELLA FUCIFORMIS EXTRACT.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Tremella Fuciformis Extract, derived from the snow mushroom, is a potent polysaccharide-rich ingredient revered for its exceptional hydrating capabilities. It deeply moisturizes by enhancing cellular water exchange and forms a protective film, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss. Beyond hydration, this multi-functional extract delivers robust antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and brightening benefits, supporting overall skin health and resilience.

Summary

moisturizer/humectant antioxidant anti-inflammatory skin barrier support skin brightening collagen support

Science

Mechanism of Action

Tremella Fuciformis Extract primarily functions through its high polysaccharide content. It actively boosts the expression of critical aquaporin and filaggrin genes (AQP3, FLG, CASP14), facilitating optimal water transport and retention within skin cells. Concurrently, it creates a flexible, non-cracking film on the skin's surface, which strengthens the barrier function and effectively minimizes moisture evaporation. The extract also contains low molecular weight natural hyaluronic acid, allowing for deeper skin penetration. As a powerful antioxidant, it scavenges free radicals and upregulates superoxide dismutase (SOD), safeguarding the skin against environmental stressors and premature aging. Furthermore, it supports collagen synthesis for improved firmness and elasticity, while its immunomodulatory properties reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines, offering soothing benefits. It also contributes to a brighter complexion by inhibiting melanin production and tyrosinase activity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–0.1%
Optimal

0.05%

Key findings

  1. 01 Increased epidermal hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 12.4% in an emulsion, with no observed swelling or irritation.
  2. 02 Exhibited superior moisturizing effects compared to products containing 0.02% hyaluronic acid.
  3. 03 Inhibited TNF-α expression and suppressed inflammatory reactions, effectively relieving UV-induced skin irritation in an in vivo study.
  4. 04 Significantly reduced melanin levels and tyrosinase expression in a dose-dependent manner.
  5. 05 Protected human skin keratinocytes from UV-induced apoptosis and reactive oxygen species production.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Clinical studies demonstrate significant efficacy at low concentrations, such as 0.05% for anti-inflammatory effects and 0.1% for hydration, indicating that these effective inclusion levels are within achievable formulation ranges for impactful results, rather than merely for 'label claim' purposes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal stability and viscosity are maintained within a pH range of 5.5 to 7.5. Strong acidic or alkaline conditions, high concentrations of salts, or elevated temperatures can lead to a reduction in solution viscosity.

Conflicts

  • Sodium gluconate (can cause incomplete dissolution and lumps if added prior to the extract)
  • Strong acids or alkalis (reduce solution viscosity)
  • High concentrations of salts (decrease solution viscosity)
  • High temperatures (decrease solution viscosity)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

No specific review has been conducted by CIR, SCCS, or FDA. However, dermatological evaluations up to 0.1% concentration showed no signs of erythema, swelling, or irritation. It is generally considered non-irritating, with some sources noting 'Limited evidence of skin irritation' referencing ECHA.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Tremella Fuciformis Extract is a highly valuable ingredient due to its clinically supported multi-faceted benefits including superior hydration, robust antioxidant protection, anti-inflammatory effects, and skin brightening, coupled with excellent skin compatibility across all skin types.

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