Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract exerts its dermatological benefits through various bioactive compounds, including polysaccharopeptides (PSPs) and polysaccharide-K (PSK), which bolster the skin's intrinsic antioxidant enzyme activity and gene expression. It effectively counters UVB-induced cellular senescence in keratinocytes, potentially by upregulating proteins involved in cellular aging regulation, metabolism, and stress responses. Additionally, triterpenes contribute to its antioxidant capacity, inflammation reduction, and cell renewal. The extract also demonstrates antimicrobial and antiviral properties, supporting a balanced skin microbiome and reducing irritation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 At a concentration of 10 µg/mL (0.001%), Trametes Versicolor Extract was shown to counter UVB-induced cellular senescence in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), indicating anti-aging potential against photo-damage.
- 02 Enzymatically hydrolyzed polysaccharopeptides (PSPs-EH80) from Trametes versicolor, at 1 mg/mL (0.1%), significantly improved HaCaT cell survival and reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) content by at least twofold. The extract demonstrated enhanced antioxidant activities with notable IC50 values: 0.83 mg/mL for metal chelating, 0.14 mg/mL for ABTS scavenging, and 0.52 mg/mL for DPPH scavenging.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to the nature of the available *in vitro* concentration data (µg/mL and mg/mL, which translate to 0.001% to 0.1%), it is challenging to define a specific 'dusting threshold' for topical formulations without direct *in vivo* efficacy studies at various percentages. The provided research indicates effective concentrations in cellular models.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The primary bioactive compounds, such as polysaccharides, are water-soluble, making hot water extraction a common method. Alcohol extraction can selectively yield other components like terpenoids and phenolic compounds. While no specific optimal pH range for cosmetic formulation stability has been identified, enzymatic hydrolysis for extraction was optimal at pH 5.5, and antifungal activity was observed at pH 4.00. Standard preservation strategies and protection from light, heat, and oxidation are recommended for optimal stability.
Safety
Safety Profile
Trametes Versicolor Extract generally possesses a favorable safety profile and is approved for cosmetic applications by regulatory bodies, including the European Cosmetics Directive. However, individuals with known sensitivities to fungi or plants should conduct a patch test prior to widespread use to mitigate potential allergic reactions.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Trametes Versicolor Extract is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient that offers comprehensive benefits, including robust antioxidant defense, anti-aging effects, anti-inflammatory action, and microbiome support, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity.
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