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Moumoujus

TETRAPEPTIDE-20.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING

Tetrapeptide-20, specifically Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20, is an advanced biomimetic peptide engineered to combat premature hair greying by reactivating the hair's natural pigmentation process. Beyond its primary hair benefits, it also contributes to improved skin hydration and barrier integrity.

Summary

Hair conditioning Skin conditioning Hair pigmentation enhancement Antioxidant Barrier function support Keratin synthesis stimulation

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide operates by mimicking alpha-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone (α-MSH), binding to the Melanocortin-1 Receptor (MC1-R) on melanocytes within the hair bulb. This crucial interaction stimulates melanogenesis, increasing melanin production and facilitating its transfer, thereby promoting natural hair repigmentation. Furthermore, Tetrapeptide-20 demonstrates antioxidant properties by enhancing catalase activity, reducing intracellular hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) levels by up to 30%. It also upregulates SIRT1 activity and stimulates hair follicle stem cells, boosting keratin production, and can improve skin hydration by fortifying the skin's barrier function.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.001–0.001%
Optimal

0.001%

Key findings

  1. 01 Daily application of 0.001% (10 ppm) active peptide for 3 months significantly reduced premature hair greying in male volunteers, evidenced by enhanced hair pigmentation and MC1-R activity.
  2. 02 A 0.001% (10 ppm) active peptide formulation restored natural hair color within 3 months and increased hair density by 21.3% over 16 weeks.
  3. 03 In vitro studies on human melanocyte cultures revealed a 19% increase in melanin synthesis at 10^-7 M and a 39% increase at 10^-6 M after 72 hours of treatment.
  4. 04 A topical formulation containing 2% Greyverse solution (equivalent to 0.001% active peptide) applied twice daily resulted in over 90% conversion of gray hair in a 25-year-old female with premature greying after 5 months.
  5. 05 Ex vivo studies on hair follicles showed a 52% increase in hair pigmentation at 10^-9 M and a 66% increase at 10^-7 M after 8 days.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Stable and effective within a pH range of 4.5-6.5. Must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C to preserve integrity. Optimal long-term storage is between 2-8°C or -20°C.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizers (e.g., peroxides)
  • sulfates

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Though specific regulatory assessments from CIR, SCCS, or FDA are not documented in the provided data, Tetrapeptide-20 is characterized as an effective, safe, and scalp-friendly ingredient. Patch tests indicate a low potential for irritation or sensitization.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A potent biomimetic peptide primarily valued for its significant efficacy in reversing premature hair greying and enhancing hair density, with additional benefits for skin conditioning.

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