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TEA-ISOSTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 88120-12-1 / CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

TEA-Isostearate is a functional cosmetic ingredient, primarily valued for its role as an emulsifier and surfactant. It facilitates the stable blending of oil and water phases, contributing to the consistent texture and feel of formulations while also acting as a cleansing agent.

Summary

surfactant/cleansing emulsifying pH adjuster hair conditioning texture enhancer spreadability enhancer delivery enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water, allowing them to mix and form uniform, stable emulsions. In cleansing products, it aids in dispersing oil and dirt, making them easily rinsable. Furthermore, TEA-Isostearate can enhance the spreadability and glide of cosmetic formulations, potentially improving the cutaneous delivery and absorption of other active ingredients. Its triethanolamine component also contributes to pH adjustment and aids in solubilizing oils within the product matrix.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

TEA-Isostearate exhibits compatibility with a broad spectrum of cosmetic ingredients, including other emulsifiers, thickeners, and stabilizers, allowing for diverse textural and performance outcomes. However, formulators must stringently avoid the co-incorporation of N-nitrosating agents to prevent the formation of harmful N-nitrosamines.

Synergies

  • other emulsifiers
  • thickeners
  • stabilizers

Conflicts

  • N-nitrosating agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15%
Sensitization risk Unknown

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed TEA-containing ingredients, including related compounds like TEA-Stearate, safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. For products with prolonged skin contact, the concentration of related TEA-Stearate should not exceed 15% to ensure the Triethanolamine (TEA) component remains below 5%. A critical safety directive is to rigorously avoid conditions that could lead to N-nitrosation reactions, which generate carcinogenic N-nitrosamines. Both Triethanolamine and Stearic Acid, the constituent components, are approved for food use by the FDA, with Stearic Acid being Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS).

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

TEA-Isostearate is a valuable functional ingredient for creating stable, well-textured emulsions and aiding cleansing, provided strict formulation protocols are followed to prevent the formation of N-nitrosamines.

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