Science
Mechanism of Action
As an anionic surfactant, Stearoyl Sarcosine reduces the surface tension between immiscible phases, allowing water to more effectively mix with and lift oil-based dirt for thorough cleansing. Its amphiphilic nature is also posited to modulate the stratum corneum's lipid barrier, thereby enhancing the transdermal delivery and absorption of other ingredients within a formulation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 A clinical study by the CIR Expert Panel demonstrated that Stearoyl Sarcosine is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in leave-on applications at concentrations up to 5%, which was the highest concentration tested.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Acyl sarcosines, including Stearoyl Sarcosine, are stronger acids than their parent fatty acids and readily form salts within the neutral to mildly acidic pH range, which contributes to their stability and functional properties.
Conflicts
- Must not be used in cosmetic products where the formation of N-nitroso compounds is possible, due to the risk of sarcosine nitrosation into potentially carcinogenic N-nitrososarcosine.
- Requires careful consideration when formulating with ingredients whose safety profile relies on limited dermal absorption, as Stearoyl Sarcosine can enhance the penetration of other active compounds.
Safety
Safety Profile
Deemed safe for use in rinse-off products and for leave-on products at concentrations up to 5%. However, data is insufficient to establish safety in products likely to be inhaled. It is approved by the FDA for specific indirect food additive uses and is permitted in cosmetics under European Union regulations, provided general provisions are met.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Stearoyl Sarcosine is a versatile ingredient valued for its effective cleansing, hair conditioning, and penetration-enhancing properties. It presents a low risk of irritation at tested concentrations up to 5%, provided critical formulation precautions regarding N-nitroso compound formation and enhanced dermal absorption are strictly observed.
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