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STEARDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN.

Valuable / ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a sophisticated cationic protein derivative formulated to enhance skin hydration and fortify the skin barrier. It functions as a conditioning agent, humectant, and film-former, promoting a visibly smoother and softer skin texture by effectively preserving moisture.

Summary

Skin Conditioning Humectant Film-forming

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient acts as a cationic skin conditioning agent through a dual mechanism. Lower molecular weight fractions of the keratin hydrolysate are capable of penetrating the stratum corneum, delivering hydration internally, while higher molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermal surface. This combined action significantly improves the skin's barrier function and its inherent water-holding capacity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 2–4%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Increased stratum corneum hydration by 14%-23% when used as a keratin hydrolysate in an ointment base.
  2. 02 Decreased trans-epidermal water loss by 26%-46% when used as a keratin hydrolysate in an ointment base.
  3. 03 No adverse effects were reported in an efficacy study involving hydrolyzed keratin in a hand cream.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

This material demonstrates stability under standard ambient and anticipated storage and handling conditions. As a cationic ingredient (quaternary ammonium salt), it exhibits enhanced substantivity and moisture-binding properties, suggesting stability across a broader pH spectrum, with a related cationic keratin derivative possessing an isoionic point exceeding 9.5.

Conflicts

  • Oxidisers

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that hydrolyzed keratin and its derivatives, including this ingredient, are safe for use in cosmetics. Hydrolyzed Keratin exhibited non-irritating properties at 100% in in vitro tests and up to 25% in human studies. No sensitization was observed in patch studies at concentrations up to 5%. Reputable cosmetic grades are sourced from non-human keratin (e.g., wool), aligning with EU regulations that prohibit human-derived keratin. The SCCS has also affirmed the safety of amino acids obtained via hydrolysis of non-human hair.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This ingredient is a valuable asset for enhancing skin hydration and barrier integrity, substantiated by precise clinical data and a robust safety profile.

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