Science
Mechanism of Action
The Sparassis crispa component, abundant in β-glucans, provides profound skin hydration, reduces inflammation, and stimulates natural restorative mechanisms. It reinforces the skin's protective barrier, thereby mitigating sensitivity and delivering strong antioxidant benefits. Additionally, it may contribute to inhibiting melanin synthesis. The Usnea longissima component, containing usnic acid, polysaccharides, and phenolic compounds, exhibits potent antibacterial and antifungal properties, effective against skin infections like acne. It actively calms inflammation, alleviates irritation, offers antioxidant protection, promotes wound healing and skin regeneration, enhances skin moisture levels, and helps maintain the skin's natural barrier integrity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Sparassis crispa ethanol extract (a small-molecule fraction) exhibited neuroprotective effects by reducing apoptosis and reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation and activating AKT-NRF2 and ERK-CREB signaling in glutamate-induced mouse hippocampal cells at concentrations of 10-20 µg/mL.
- 02 Oral consumption of Sparassis crispa improved skin conditions in human subjects, leading to a significant reduction in cheek transepidermal water loss after 4 weeks.
- 03 A filtrate with a molecular weight less than 3 kDa, derived from Sparassis crispa culture broth, demonstrated antimicrobial activity against various bacteria with Minimum Inhibitory Concentrations (MIC) ranging from 1.26 mg/mL (for B. cereus) to 62.8 mg/mL (for S. typhimurium).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While specific optimal pH ranges for the ferment extract filtrate in cosmetic formulations are not available, Sparassis crispa extract is recognized as an emulsion stabilizing ingredient. Usnea barbata, a related species to Usnea longissima, is also utilized for microbial stabilization in cosmetic formulations, suggesting the combined ingredient may offer stability benefits.
Safety
Safety Profile
No direct CIR, SCCS, or FDA status has been established for the combined ingredient. Sparassis crispa, as an edible mushroom, is generally considered to have low toxicity when ingested. Usnea longissima extract is typically viewed as 'possibly safe' for topical application, and generally has a low irritant potential. However, some individuals may experience allergic reactions, such as a red, itchy rash. Oral intake of Usnea is considered 'possibly unsafe' due to usnic acid, which can induce liver damage at high doses.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ingredient offers valuable multi-functional benefits, including significant hydration, barrier support, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making it a strong contender for formulations targeting overall skin health and resilience across various skin types.
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