Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions primarily as a humectant and emollient, attracting and retaining water within the stratum corneum to enhance skin hydration and texture. As a hydrolyzed collagen derivative, it delivers oligopeptides—small peptide fragments—that can penetrate the epidermis. Once in the dermis, these peptides serve as vital amino acid building blocks for synthesizing new collagen and elastin. Furthermore, they may actively stimulate fibroblast cells to increase the production of structural proteins like collagen and elastin, as well as hyaluronic acid, which is crucial for skin volume and hydration. Some evidence also suggests antioxidant capabilities.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence8%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data available to suggest this ingredient is commonly 'dusted' or used below effective concentrations in formulations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and performance for hydrolyzed collagen derivatives are typically achieved within a pH range of 5.0-6.5. Formulators should be mindful of the ingredient's isoelectric point (pI), which generally falls between 3.68 and 5.7, and ideally avoid formulating products near this range to ensure optimal emulsification and emulsion stability.
Conflicts
- When co-formulated with certain UV filters, such as octocrylene (with or without butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and TiO2), hydrolyzed collagen has been observed to reduce the SPF values and overall photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens. This interaction is a critical consideration in sunscreen product development.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed the safety of hydrolyzed collagen for cosmetic use, a conclusion reinforced in 2006. Regulatory bodies including the FDA (classifying gelatin, a source of collagen peptides, as safe) and the European Union's Cosmetics Regulation also permit its inclusion in cosmetic products. No significant irritation or sensitization risks were reported in the available data.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sodium Myristoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is a valuable ingredient offering significant moisturizing and emollient benefits, with potential for deeper biological activity to support skin structure, all within a robust safety profile.
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