Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a mild cleansing agent by reducing surface tension, enabling it to efficiently lift and rinse away dirt, oil, and pollutants. It selectively solubilizes squalene while preserving critical barrier lipids such as ceramides and cholesterol. Post-application, it breaks down into glutamic acid and fatty acids, which are beneficial components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), like PCA. Furthermore, its carboxyl groups aid in maintaining the skin's physiological pH, and it can mitigate the drying effects of other anionic surfactants and hard water.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated superior mildness and the lowest solubilization of intercellular lipids compared to other surfactants, as assessed in keratinocyte cytotoxicity studies.
- 02 Consistently shown to be non-irritating to skin.
- 03 Did not exhibit phototoxic or sensitizing effects in human studies.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient maintains optimal function within a mildly acidic to neutral pH range of 4.5-7.5, aligning with the skin's natural pH. A 5% aqueous solution typically presents a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. It offers robust foam stability across diverse pH conditions and in hard water environments.
Synergies
- Enhances skin moisture by contributing to Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) like PCA.
- Reduces the absorption of other anionic surfactants, helping to prevent skin dryness.
Conflicts
- Reacts with azo and diazo compounds, potentially generating toxic gases.
- Forms flammable gases when interacting with strong reducing agents.
- Reacts with strong bases to form salts due to its weak basicity.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed amino acid alkyl amides, including this ingredient, safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. It holds a Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) status by the FDA. While one HET-CAM study reported irritation at 5%, multiple human studies confirm its non-irritating and non-sensitizing profile up to 10% and 5% respectively.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This amino acid-based surfactant is a highly valuable cleansing agent, delivering effective purification with scientifically supported mildness and significant barrier-preserving benefits for all skin types.
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