Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as an anionic surfactant, reducing surface tension to facilitate cleansing, foaming, and emulsification. Its unique structure, featuring lipophilic cocoyl and olivoyl fatty acid components along with polar grafted peptides, efficiently lifts dirt while preserving skin hydration. On the skin, it establishes a protective colloid coating, which supports moisture retention, prevents dryness, and aids in diminishing the appearance of wrinkles. It also contributes to increased skin elasticity and firmness, offers antioxidant benefits against free radicals, and exhibits counter-irritant properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The ingredient is stable up to 50°C; however, continuous exposure to temperatures exceeding 50°C may induce browning. It should be added during the cooling phase of a formulation to maintain optimal integrity.
Conflicts
- High molecular weight peptides of hydrolyzed wheat protein, especially when integrated with surfactants, have been associated with sensitization in some individuals.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has determined that hydrolyzed wheat protein is safe for cosmetic use provided it is formulated to restrict peptides to a weight-average molecular weight of 3500 Da or less, or to minimize peptide lengths to under 30 amino acids (approximately 3.3 kDa). This ingredient should not be used on damaged skin, in products contacting mucous membranes, or where incidental inhalation is possible. High molecular weight hydrolyzed wheat protein (e.g., 40,000-50,000 Da) has been linked to Type 1 immediate hypersensitivity reactions. For appropriately formulated versions, the SCCS considers it non-irritating to the skin, and SkinSAFE lists it as 'Irritant Free'. The FDA also recognizes peptones as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for direct food substances.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
SODIUM COCOYL/OLIVOYL HYDROLYZED OAT/WHEAT PROTEIN is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient providing gentle cleansing, significant skin conditioning, and anti-aging benefits when carefully formulated within established safety parameters, particularly regarding peptide molecular weight.
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