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SODIUM COCOYL BARLEY AMINO ACIDS.

Valuable / EMULSION STABILISING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Sodium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids is a gentle, plant-derived surfactant crafted from barley protein amino acids and coconut fatty acids. This innovative ingredient excels at effective cleansing while simultaneously conditioning the skin and minimizing irritation, making it suitable for a wide array of precision skincare formulations.

Summary

Surfactant Emulsifying Emulsion Stabilising Skin Conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions primarily as a lipo-amino acid complex. Its molecular structure features both hydrophilic (water-loving) and hydrophobic (oil-loving) ends, characteristic of a surfactant. This duality allows it to effectively reduce surface tension between oil and water, encapsulating dirt, excess sebum, and impurities from the skin. It then enables these trapped substances to be easily rinsed away. Beyond its excellent cleansing capabilities, it also stabilizes emulsions and contributes moisturizing properties, helping to maintain skin barrier integrity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.4–20%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations typically range from 0.4% to 2.8% for Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids in rinse-off products and 0.4% to 1% in leave-on formulations. For high-foaming cleansers, it can be utilized at levels up to 20% when combined with other surfactants. No specific clinical studies detailing efficacy outcomes were provided for this ingredient.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.8 – 6.3
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient demonstrates robust stability and contributes to optimal product viscosity within a narrow pH range of 5.8 to 6.3. It offers superior foaming properties and a low irritation profile, crucial for sensitive skin formulations. While this specific ingredient's optimal pH is defined, similar amino acid surfactants show stability across a broader range (e.g., pH 4.5–7.5).

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed the broader category of α-amino acids, which includes Sodium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids, safe for use in cosmetic applications. This ingredient is considered safe for use up to 20% in cleansers, 0.4% to 2.8% in rinse-off products, and 0.4% to 1% in leave-on products. No specific SCCS opinion was identified.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Sodium Cocoyl Barley Amino Acids is a valuable, mild, and plant-derived surfactant that effectively cleanses while providing skin conditioning benefits across all skin types.

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