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SODIUM COCOYL (ARGININE/ASPARTIC ACID/GLUTAMIC ACID/ISOLEUCINE/LEUCINE/LYSINE/PHENYLALANINE/PROLINE/SERINE/THREONINE/VALINE).

Valuable / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING

This ingredient ingeniously combines the gentle cleansing power of coconut fatty acids with a comprehensive blend of essential amino acids. It functions as a mild surfactant, effectively purifying the skin while simultaneously replenishing its vital moisture and reinforcing its natural barrier. Its multi-faceted benefits support overall skin health and resilience.

emollient emulsifying emulsion stabilising skin conditioning surfactant cleansing

Science

This ingredient operates as a dual-action agent: primarily as a gentle surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids, providing effective yet mild cleansing. Concurrently, its rich amino acid complex—comprising a blend of arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, and valine—actively supports skin hydration, enhances elasticity, and maintains the skin's natural moisture barrier. These amino acids are fundamental building blocks for peptides and proteins, contributing to collagen synthesis, improving skin texture, and preventing moisture loss. Arginine, for instance, acts as a natural moisturizing factor, supports wound healing, and provides antioxidant benefits.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.4–20%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Safety evaluations by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel confirm its safe use in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

While a specific optimal pH range for this exact blend is not explicitly detailed, related amino acid-based surfactants are known for stability and mildness in weakly acidic conditions, similar to the skin's natural pH.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used with restrictions
Max tested
20%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed amino acid alkyl amides, the class to which this ingredient belongs, concluding their safety in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating. Manufacturers are advised to minimize residual peptides to mitigate potential allergic reactions. Usage concentrations vary by product type: up to 20% in cleansers, 0.4% to 2.8% in rinse-off products, and 0.4% to 1% in leave-on products.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

This versatile ingredient offers gentle cleansing and significant skin-replenishing benefits through its amino acid complex, making it a valuable addition for enhancing skin hydration, texture, and resilience across various product types.


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