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SODIUM ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside is a highly stable, water-soluble derivative of L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C). It functions as a sustained-release mechanism, delivering active Vitamin C to the skin to combat oxidative stress, promote collagen synthesis, and achieve a brighter, more even complexion.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin-brightening Anti-acne Collagen Boosting

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a stable precursor to bioactive L-Ascorbic Acid. Upon epidermal absorption, enzymatic hydrolysis occurs, progressively liberating free Vitamin C within the skin. The released L-Ascorbic Acid acts as a potent antioxidant, effectively neutralizing reactive oxygen species and reducing cellular oxidative stress. Concurrently, it stimulates collagen production, crucial for maintaining dermal structure and elasticity. Furthermore, by modulating tyrosinase enzyme activity, it inhibits melanin synthesis, leading to a visible reduction in hyperpigmentation and an improved, uniform skin tone. In vitro studies additionally suggest a potential role in inhibiting collagenase and elastase enzymes.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range ≤5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A clinical study involving 27 Japanese women with solar lentigines demonstrated a significant reduction in pigmentation scores over 24 weeks when a 28% Ascorbyl Glucoside-arginine complex lotion was applied twice daily, compared to a placebo.
  2. 02 In vitro assays showed that Ascorbyl Glucoside concentrations between 0.1-0.5 mM effectively stimulated collagen synthesis in cultured human skin fibroblasts.
  3. 03 An in vitro study revealed that Ascorbyl Glucoside at concentrations of 0.5-5 mM suppressed UVB-induced cytotoxicity in cultured HaCaT human keratinocytes, indicating cellular protection against UV damage.
  4. 04 In vitro research using B16 melanoma cells demonstrated that 2 mmol/L of Ascorbyl Glucoside significantly inhibited melanin synthesis, resulting in a statistically significant reduction in melanin pigmentation over 48 hours.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Specific data regarding 'dusting' or a 'dusting threshold' for Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside is not available in the provided research, suggesting it is not a commonly associated concern.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Ascorbyl Glucoside, the active form released from Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside, exhibits excellent stability across a broad pH range. Optimal stability in cosmetic products is observed around pH 6.4 (and at 55.3°C). It is broadly compatible with a wide array of cosmetic ingredients.

Synergies

  • Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that both Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside are safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations, up to a maximum of 5% in leave-on formulations. It is considered non-irritating to the skin, non-photosensitizing, and non-genotoxic. Undiluted Ascorbyl Glucoside was noted to be slightly irritating to rabbit eyes. It is important for formulators to consider that in the US, skin lightening is classified as a drug effect, and products should be formulated accordingly. The data indicates that Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside is not presently in widespread cosmetic use, despite its established safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside is a valuable, stable vitamin C derivative offering broad benefits for skin brightening, collagen support, and antioxidant protection, suitable for most skin types.

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