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SMILAX CHINA ROOT EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90131-09-2 / ANTIMICROBIAL, ANTIOXIDANT, ASTRINGENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Smilax China Root Extract is a multifaceted botanical active recognized for its precision in addressing various skin concerns. It notably targets acne-causing bacteria, modulates inflammatory pathways, and reinforces the skin's natural barrier, promoting overall skin health and resilience.

Antimicrobial Antioxidant Astringent Skin conditioning

Science

This extract primarily operates through several key pathways. Its antimicrobial action, particularly against Cutibacterium acnes, is attributed to phenolic compounds that may disrupt bacterial cell membranes and walls. Anti-inflammatory benefits stem from its ability to reduce nitric oxide production, downregulate critical proinflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6), and inhibit iNOS and COX-2 expression. Furthermore, it acts as an antioxidant, neutralizing damaging free radicals. For anti-aging and repair, it limits collagen and elastase degradation while stimulating the synthesis of Type I and IV collagens. Crucially, it bolsters skin barrier function by upregulating essential proteins like filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin in keratinocytes.


Research

High confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated strong antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, with active compounds showing efficacy at specific concentrations: quercetin at 31.25 µg/mL, resveratrol at 125 µg/mL, and oxyresveratrol at 250 µg/mL.
  2. 02 Exhibited concentration-dependent anti-inflammatory effects, reducing nitric oxide production and proinflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6), while inhibiting iNOS and COX-2 expression. It also inhibited collagenase activity and promoted type I collagen synthesis.
  3. 03 Enhanced the mRNA expression of skin barrier proteins such as filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, leading to improved skin barrier function.
  4. 04 Increased proliferation, migration, and sprout outgrowth of human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), and stimulated the synthesis of type I and IV collagens and barrier proteins (filaggrin, loricrin), supporting wound healing and skin barrier repair, with no observed toxicity to these cells.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Insufficient data available to determine dusting potential at typical cosmetic formulation percentages.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Formulation can be challenging due to its inherent poor solubility and limited skin permeability, necessitating the use of advanced delivery systems like microemulsions to optimize penetration and bioavailability. For topical applications, product pH is typically adjusted to a skin-compatible range of 5.5–6.5.


Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Acute and subacute toxicity studies in mice showed no adverse effects at concentrations up to 2000 mg/kg. The extract is generally considered non-irritating to skin.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

Smilax China Root Extract is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient, clinically demonstrated to combat acne, reduce inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, and support collagen synthesis for enhanced skin health.


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