Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several intricate pathways to enhance skin health. It significantly modulates inflammatory responses by downregulating MAPK and NF-κB signaling pathways, leading to a reduction in nitric oxide, iNOS, COX-2, and proinflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6. To reinforce the skin barrier, it boosts the mRNA expression of critical proteins including filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin. Its anti-aging efficacy is attributed to inhibiting collagenase and MMP-1 production, promoting type I collagen synthesis, and preventing Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) formation. Furthermore, it exhibits potent antioxidant activity by scavenging free radicals and displays antimicrobial action, notably against Cutibacterium acnes, potentially by disrupting bacterial cell integrity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Strong antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes was observed with active compounds from Smilax china root extracts, including quercetin at 31.25 μg/mL, resveratrol at 125 μg/mL, and oxyresveratrol at 250 μg/mL.
- 02 An ethanol extract from Smilax china demonstrated concentration-dependent effects, including a significant reduction in nitric oxide production and proinflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6), along with inhibited expression of iNOS and COX-2. It also inhibited collagenase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), promoted type I collagen synthesis, and enhanced mRNA expression levels of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin for improved skin barrier function.
- 03 A Smilax china stem extract inhibited Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) formation with an IC50 of 145 ± 8 μg/mL. It also inhibited Aldose Reductase activity (IC50 37.0 ± 4.6 μg/mL), α-Glucosidase activity (IC50 51.7 ± 2.1 μg/mL), and Lipase activity (IC50 2.75 ± 0.22 mg/mL).
- 04 An ethanol extract from Smilax china root, at a concentration of 1.8 mg/mL, increased cell viability by 1.5-fold and lowered cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in nicotine-treated HepG2 cells.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Smilax China Bark Extract presents formulation challenges due to its poor intrinsic solubility and low skin permeability, which can limit its topical effectiveness. The pH of a formulation may influence the solubility and stability of the active compounds within the extract. To enhance solubility, penetration, and overall bioavailability, microemulsion-based drug delivery systems are suggested. Hydroalcoholic solvents, such as a 70% ethanol-water blend, are efficient for extracting a comprehensive range of its beneficial phytochemicals.
Safety
Safety Profile
Acute and subacute toxicity studies conducted in mice showed no observed adverse effects with Smilax china root extract at concentrations ranging from 50 to 2000 mg/kg. In the US, cosmetic products and ingredients do not require pre-market FDA approval; manufacturers are responsible for ensuring product safety.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Smilax China Bark Extract is a valuable ingredient, providing a robust spectrum of benefits including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, barrier-strengthening, and anti-aging properties, making it highly suitable for diverse precision skincare formulations.
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References
Sources