Science
Mechanism of Action
This highly effective messenger peptide functions by activating dermal fibroblast activity, primarily stimulating the endogenous synthesis of key extracellular matrix components. Specifically, it promotes the production of collagen types I, III, and IV, alongside elastin, fibronectin, and glucosaminoglycans (GAGs). These macromolecules are crucial for maintaining skin structural integrity, firmness, elasticity, and hydration. The attached palmitoyl group enhances its lipophilicity, improving its ability to penetrate the skin's lipid barrier, thereby optimizing its delivery to deeper skin layers where it promotes cellular turnover and safeguards existing collagen from degradation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.005%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, and improved overall skin texture. This concentration exhibited similar wrinkle-improving ability to 0.07% retinol, with the added benefit of better skin tolerability.
- 02 Achieved an 18% reduction in fold depth, a 37% decrease in fold thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness specifically around the crow's feet area when applied twice daily.
- 03 Significantly reduced the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on photoaged facial skin.
- 04 Investigated for substantial improvement in periorbital wrinkle reduction, enhanced skin elasticity, and reinforced skin barrier function, all observed without irritation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While SH-PENTAPEPTIDE-4 demonstrates clinical efficacy at concentrations as low as 0.0003% (3 ppm), formulations containing less than this proven threshold, or without transparent concentration disclosure, may be considered 'dusting'. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) reported the highest leave-on concentration in market use at 0.012%, a benchmark that some clinical studies surpass significantly for enhanced benefits, indicating a wide range where efficacy is observed.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability for SH-PENTAPEPTIDE-4 is observed within a pH range of 3.5 to 7.0. For optimal activity retention, it should be incorporated into cosmetic formulations at temperatures below 40°C during the final stage of manufacturing. For long-term storage, the ingredient should be kept tightly closed in a cool, dry place, protected from light, ideally between 2-8°C.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is safe for use in cosmetics under current practices of use and concentration. Human dermal irritation studies have shown no issues at concentrations up to 0.018%. While an in vitro HET-CAM assay indicated moderate ocular irritation for a specific trade name mixture, an acute ocular irritation study with 0.01% in rabbits was non-irritating, and clinical studies consistently demonstrate good skin tolerability.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
SH-PENTAPEPTIDE-4 is a highly valuable ingredient for precision anti-aging formulations, demonstrating significant wrinkle reduction, improved skin elasticity, and overall rejuvenation at low, well-tolerated concentrations by stimulating key dermal components.
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