Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient primarily functions by activating the synthesis of type I procollagen within human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cells in a dose-dependent manner. This mechanism is crucial for maintaining skin's structural integrity and firmness, contributing to wrinkle reduction. Furthermore, extracts from closely related Sambucus species exhibit potent antioxidant activity, effectively neutralizing free radicals and mitigating oxidative stress. They also demonstrate anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, calming skin irritation. Ancillary benefits observed in some Sambucus extracts include astringent qualities for pore refinement and mild antimicrobial effects beneficial for acne-prone skin. Additionally, elderberry leaf extracts have shown promise in supporting wound healing by stimulating keratinocyte proliferation and modulating inflammatory responses.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An ethanol extract of Sambucus sieboldiana branches (SSE) was shown to activate the production of type I procollagen in fibroblast HDFn cells in a dose-dependent fashion, without inducing cellular toxicity. This preclinical evidence supports its potential application as an active ingredient in wrinkle-care cosmetic formulations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Ethanol and glycerin serve as effective extraction solvents for related Sambucus species, yielding extracts that are soluble in both water and alcohol. For enhanced stability of Sambucus nigra extracts, formulation with polyethylene glycol (PEG) has been observed to extend shelf life. While optimal extraction of phenolic compounds from elderberries (Sambucus nigra L.) can occur within a pH range of 3-4.5 using enzyme-assisted methods, this range refers to the extraction process itself, not necessarily the optimal stability pH for the final cosmetic formulation.
Safety
Safety Profile
No specific safety assessment from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) or the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has been published for SAMBUCUS SIEBOLDIANA LEAF/STEM EXTRACT. The FDA's Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) listing for 'ELDER FLOWERS, EXTRACT (SAMBUCUS CANADENSIS L. OR SAMBUCUS NIGRA L.)' applies to specific species, plant parts, and food flavor enhancement, not directly to this particular extract for cosmetic use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
SAMBUCUS SIEBOLDIANA LEAF/STEM EXTRACT is a valuable botanical ingredient, demonstrating promising in-vitro collagen-stimulating activity for anti-aging, complemented by a range of antioxidant and soothing benefits attributed to the broader Sambucus genus, though further human clinical data for this specific extract would enhance its profile.
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