Science
Mechanism of Action
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract operates through multiple pathways to enhance skin vitality. As a powerful antioxidant, it actively scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS) and upregulates Nrf2/HO-1 signaling, bolstering the skin’s intrinsic defenses against oxidative damage. Its anti-inflammatory action involves suppressing NF-κB and modulating the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6, IL-1β, and TNF-α. The extract exhibits anti-aging effects by stimulating cellular proliferation, inhibiting collagenase and elastase, and blocking MMP-1 overexpression via the MAPK/AP-1 pathway, while simultaneously boosting collagen synthesis through TGF-β/Smad signaling. Rich in Vitamin C, it contributes to skin brightening by impeding melanin synthesis and reducing hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, bioflavonoids impart astringent qualities, aiding in the appearance of reduced pore size and skin tightening, while its humectant nature ensures vital moisture retention. The presence of undecylenic acid also confers antimicrobial properties, providing defense against various microorganisms.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.1%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant stimulation of cell proliferation, inhibition of collagenase and elastase, robust ROS-scavenging activity, and reduction of inflammation in LPS-induced human skin fibroblasts.
- 02 Exhibited antibacterial efficacy against specific bacterial strains. A fermented bioferment extract at 0.05% proved more potent in inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α) than an unfermented extract at a higher concentration.
- 03 Showed strong free-radical-scavenging capabilities, surpassing arbutin at the same concentration, and ameliorated UVB-induced photoaging and inflammatory responses in human skin keratinocytes.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is stable within a pH range of 3.9-7.2. Its key bioactive compounds, anthocyanins, are sensitive to temperatures exceeding 60°C, which can lead to degradation. The natural purple pigmentation of the extract may impart color to final formulations. Undecylenic acid, a component of the extract, offers inherent antimicrobial and antifungal properties, contributing to product stability and preventing rancidity.
Synergies
- Undecylenic acid content contributes to product preservation by inhibiting microbial growth.
Conflicts
- High temperatures (above 60°C) can reduce the efficacy and concentration of anthocyanins.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and SCCS have not formally reviewed Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract. The FDA recognizes elderberry extract as a food additive. EWG Skin Deep indicates low concerns regarding cancer, allergies & immunotoxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and usage restrictions. While unripe elderberries contain potentially toxic cyanogenic glycosides, thermally processed elderberries are considered safe for both consumption and general cosmetic application.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract is a valuable ingredient, offering a broad spectrum of clinically supported benefits including antioxidant defense, anti-inflammatory action, anti-aging effects, and skin brightening, making it suitable for diverse skin types and precision skincare formulations.
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