Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a powerful antioxidant, shielding the skin from free radical damage and oxidative stress primarily through its abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. It exhibits anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting pathways like NF-κB signaling, effectively soothing irritation and reducing redness. For hydration, it stimulates hyaluronic acid synthesis and prevents its enzymatic degradation, restoring the skin's barrier. Anti-aging benefits stem from its ability to stimulate cell proliferation, inhibit collagenase (MMP-1), and enhance procollagen type I synthesis via TGF-β/Smad activation, leading to a reduction in fine lines and improved elasticity. The extract's Vitamin C content contributes to brightening and evening skin tone, while mild antimicrobial properties against Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis support acne-prone skin. Additionally, it offers astringent qualities to tighten pores and strengthens fragile capillaries.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceFormulations are recommended to utilize Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract within a 1.0% to 3.0% concentration range to achieve demonstrable anti-radical, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits, as confirmed by in-vivo and in-vitro testing.
Key findings
- 01 Clinical and laboratory tests indicate that concentrations between 1.0% and 3.0% are effective for skincare (e.g., anti-aging, anti-inflammatory for sensitive and thread-vein skin) and body care (e.g., slimming, anti-cellulite).
- 02 An aqueous extract demonstrated antimicrobial activity against Gram-positive bacteria, specifically Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis, at an IC50 of 1250 µg/mL.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Given the established effective concentration range of 1.0% to 3.0% for Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, formulations incorporating this ingredient below 1.0% may be considered 'dusting,' potentially compromising the attainment of its full clinical benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
To maintain efficacy, the extract should be stored refrigerated in a tightly sealed container, shielded from both heat and direct light. While water is a suitable solvent for its extraction, polyethylene glycol (PEG) can be utilized to improve the solubility of its beneficial polyphenolic compounds within aqueous systems.
Synergies
- Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) for enhanced solubility of polyphenolic compounds.
- Other antioxidants (e.g., Vitamin C derivatives, Vitamin E) to bolster comprehensive free radical protection.
- Humectants (e.g., Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid) to amplify its inherent hydrating capabilities.
Safety
Safety Profile
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract is generally considered safe for topical application, presenting a minimal risk of irritation. SkinSAFE categorizes it as 'Teen SAFE', 'Talc Free', 'Lanolin Free', 'Soy Free', 'Propylene Glycol Free', and 'Dye Free'. However, as with all natural ingredients, individuals with highly sensitive skin or known botanical allergies are advised to perform a patch test. The FDA's GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) designation for 'Elder Flowers, Extract' pertains to food use and does not constitute a specific cosmetic safety assessment.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract is a valuable, multi-beneficial ingredient offering robust antioxidant defense, significant anti-inflammatory relief, deep hydration, and comprehensive anti-aging support across all skin types.
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