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Moumoujus

SALIX NIGRA BARK EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 84650-64-6 / SKIN PROTECTING

Derived from the Black Willow tree, Salix Nigra Bark Extract is a multifaceted skincare active known for its gentle exfoliating action and soothing properties. It effectively promotes cell renewal, balances sebum, and offers robust antioxidant protection, making it suitable for a wide range of skin concerns.

Summary

Exfoliant Anti-inflammatory Soothing Antimicrobial Antibacterial Antioxidant Astringent Sebum Regulator Humectant Skin Tone Evenness

Science

Mechanism of Action

Salix Nigra Bark Extract operates on multiple levels: it exfoliates by aiding in the removal of dead skin cells and encouraging cellular turnover, thereby refining skin texture and minimizing the appearance of fine lines. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities reduce redness and irritation, while its antimicrobial and antibacterial properties target bacteria like S. aureus and P. acnes, beneficial for acne-prone skin. The extract also acts as an astringent, regulates sebaceous gland activity, provides antioxidant defense, functions as a natural humectant to retain moisture, and helps to unify skin tone by diminishing pigmentation spots.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.0005–10%
Optimal

10%

Key findings

  1. 01 13.5% increase in mean elasticity, 2.2% decrease in mean melanin, 21% higher skin viscoelasticity.
  2. 02 Antioxidant activity comparable to 200µM Trolox®, active from 0.0005%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

While beneficial, Salix Nigra Bark Extract contains natural salicylates, imparting BHA-like properties. Its inclusion requires careful formulation to comply with regulatory restrictions concerning salicylic acid, especially for specific applications (e.g., children under 3, inhalation, oral products). The absence of a precise maximum concentration for the extract itself necessitates a focus on the total salicylic acid content in the final product to avoid potential misuse or over-concentration in sensitive formulations.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

This water-soluble liquid ingredient requires a finished product pH between 3.5 and 6.5, ideally no lower than 3.5-4, for optimal stability and efficacy. It exhibits inherent antimicrobial activity, contributing preservative benefits at concentrations of 2.5% to 5.0%. Encapsulation within liposomes has been shown to amplify its antimicrobial and exfoliative properties.

Synergies

  • Liposomal encapsulation enhances antimicrobial and exfoliative effects.

Conflicts

  • UVA/UVB exposure (due to BHA-like properties).
  • Not recommended for products intended for children under 3 years of age.
  • Avoid use in applications leading to inhalation exposure.
  • Not for use in oral products.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel currently categorizes Salix Nigra Bark Extract under 'insufficient data' for a definitive safety conclusion. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) identifies natural phenolics in the extract that test positive for salicylic acid, a CMR substance (category 2). Consequently, its use is restricted: not for products for children under 3 years, not in applications with potential lung exposure via inhalation, and not in oral products. Consumers should avoid UVA/UVB exposure when using products containing this ingredient.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Salix Nigra Bark Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient that gently exfoliates, soothes, and protects skin, offering significant benefits across various skin concerns, provided formulation adheres to specific safety guidelines regarding its natural salicylate content.

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