Science
Mechanism of Action
Operating with a mechanism akin to retinoids, this ferment extract stimulates gene expression critical for skin regeneration and promotes dermal protein synthesis, resulting in a rejuvenating effect without common retinoid side effects. It significantly boosts the skin's defense against oxidative stress, actively protecting against collagen degradation induced by UVB exposure, reducing inflammation, and enhancing microcirculation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 A 5% Stevia rebaudiana leaf extract cream effectively preserved dermal collagen in male Wistar rats exposed to UVB, preventing degradation.
- 02 Previous human clinical trials utilizing a 5% stevia gel demonstrated improvements in skin hydration, brightness, smoothness, and a reduction in fine wrinkles and mild acne over a 21-day period.
- 03 Fermented Stevia Leaf Extract (FSLE) exhibited enhanced antioxidant activity, achieving a 75.5% scavenging rate in the ABTS radical-scavenging assay at 40 μg/mL, surpassing unfermented extract activity.
- 04 At 250 μg/mL, Fermented Stevia Leaf Extract (FSLE) demonstrated significantly elevated antioxidant capacity and selective cytotoxicity against pancreatic cancer cells, showing minimal toxicity to non-cancerous cells.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Effective concentrations have been identified in both in-vitro and topical studies, suggesting that the ingredient provides tangible benefits at relevant usage levels.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Steviol glycosides from Stevia are notably stable across varying pH levels, temperatures, and microwave exposure. The fermentation process itself can be optimized by controlling pH, temperature, and duration. Fermentation also has the added benefit of reducing impurities, such as plant pigments and phenolics, which can contribute to color, odor, and instability due to oxidation, all while preserving or enhancing antioxidant activity.
Safety
Safety Profile
While there is no specific CIR or SCCS assessment for this exact combined ferment extract, the CIR has requested further dermal sensitization data for broader categories of yeast-derived ingredients. However, formulations containing 2.5% and 5% unfermented Stevia rebaudiana leaf extract have been deemed safe and non-toxic in animal and human studies, without causing skin irritation. Saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast component) is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food use up to 5%, and stevioside (from Stevia) is also FDA-approved as a sweetener.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This fermented extract offers a valuable, multi-functional profile for advanced skincare, providing retinoid-like benefits, potent antioxidant activity, and collagen protection across all skin types, despite a current 'insufficient data' CIR status for the combined ingredient.
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References
Sources