Science
Mechanism of Action
This precision blend leverages the synergistic actions of its components. The Saccharomyces ferment filtrate delivers a wealth of amino acids, vital for replenishing Natural Moisturizing Factors and boosting water absorption via aquaporin 3. Polysaccharides, like β-glucan, reinforce tight junctions, while phenolic compounds and superoxide dismutase provide significant antioxidant defense. Rich in vitamins, minerals, and enzymes, it promotes skin renewal and regeneration, potentially enhancing the bioavailability of nutrients and stimulating soluble elastin production. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) complements this by offering potent anti-inflammatory effects through down-regulation of TNF-alpha/IL-6, regulating sebum, brightening skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, and improving skin elasticity to smooth fine lines. Furthermore, analogous ferment filtrates have demonstrated the ability to repair UVB-induced barrier damage by restoring epidermal differentiation proteins and suppressing inflammatory pathways.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Continuous use of 5% Saccharomyces boulardii ferment filtrate for four weeks resulted in an average reduction of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by 37.2% and an increase in stratum corneum hydration by 62.5%, affirming its effectiveness in repairing damaged skin barriers.
- 02 A similar ingredient, Saccharomyces/pearl ferment lysate filtrate, restored proteins related to epidermal differentiation, tight junctions, and moisture retention in HaCaT cells, reduced by UVB exposure, and lowered inflammatory factors. In a UVB-induced mouse model, it alleviated skin peeling, erythema, TEWL, and epidermal thickening, while suppressing inflammation.
- 03 A separate clinical trial demonstrated that a 5% niacinamide moisturizer, applied twice daily over 12 weeks, significantly improved multiple signs of aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, texture, red blotchiness, and sallowness.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal performance for this ingredient is typically within a pH range of 4-7. While Saccharomyces ferment filtrates can tolerate broader pH ranges, and Niacinamide is stable from pH 3-8, the combined formulation performs best within the 4-7 window, with lysates generally favoring pH 5-6.
Conflicts
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) and other ingredients that require an alkaline pH (7-9) may be incompatible, as formulating for MAP's optimal pH could compromise the efficacy and stability of Niacinamide and other components which prefer more acidic to neutral conditions.
- High total active concentrations can pose challenges for achieving stable product textures and may increase the risk of skin irritation, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel found insufficient data to determine the safety of 'Saccharomyces Lysate Extract Filtrate' and 'Saccharomyces Lysate Filtrate' for cosmetic use. However, Niacinamide, a well-established component of this ingredient, has been deemed safe by the CIR Expert Panel, is non-toxic at levels significantly exceeding cosmetic use concentrations, and is not considered a significant skin irritant, sensitizer, or photosensitizer.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This complex ferment offers multi-functional benefits, including significant barrier repair, hydration, and anti-aging properties, supported by strong component data, though further specific safety assessments for the combined ferment portion would enhance confidence.
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