Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through multiple precise pathways to improve skin health. Its primary action stems from flavonoids and glycyrrhizic acid derived from Glycyrrhiza Glabra and Uralensis, which exhibit anti-tyrosinase activity to effectively inhibit melanin synthesis, leading to visible skin brightening and reduced hyperpigmentation. Beyond lightening, these compounds actively reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation by modulating cellular responses, such as inhibiting LPS-induced nitric oxide production and NF-κB translocation. Concurrently, it offers robust antioxidant protection against environmental aggressors. The fermentation process with Saccharomyces is hypothesized to improve the bioavailability of these active molecules and potentially generate novel beneficial metabolites, optimizing their delivery and efficacy within the skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Glycyrrhiza Glabra extract demonstrated significant skin lightening potential, inhibiting tyrosinase activity by 78.45%, which is a strong indication of anti-melanogenesis.
- 02 Isolated compounds from Glycyrrhiza uralensis leaves, including licostilbenes and licofuranols, exhibited potent anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting LPS-induced nitric oxide production with IC50 values ranging from 2.00 to 3.45 μg/mL.
- 03 A cream containing 0.20% ethyl acetate fraction of G. uralensis extracts was utilized in a stability study, revealing pH decreases of 0.66 under sun exposure and 0.08 at 0-25°C over 12 weeks, underscoring the importance of formulation stability considerations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
For optimal efficacy and stability, a pH range of 3.5-5.5 is indicated for Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract. Stability data for an unfermented G. uralensis extract in a cream showed a pH decrease of 0.66 under sun exposure and 0.08 at 0-25°C over 12 weeks, suggesting careful formulation and appropriate storage are crucial for maintaining product integrity.
Safety
Safety Profile
This fermented extract, extrapolated from its unfermented Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract component, is generally recognized as safe for cosmetic applications when properly formulated. It is classified as non-toxic and non-comedogenic, minimizing the potential for pore blockage. While individual sensitivities may lead to mild irritation in a small subset of users, the overall risk of adverse reactions is low. Specific regulatory status for this exact fermented complex is not explicitly detailed in the provided research, with safety inferred from its base components.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This Saccharomyces/Glycyrrhiza Ferment Extract is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient, delivering significant brightening, soothing, and antioxidant benefits, making it highly suitable for diverse skin types and a broad spectrum of cosmetic formulations.
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References
Sources