Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through several sophisticated pathways to optimize skin vitality. It functions as a potent antioxidant, actively protecting skin cells from free radical damage and mitigating reactive oxygen species (ROS). Its anti-inflammatory properties soothe dermal irritation and inhibit the activation of inflammation-inducing genes. For anti-aging, it stimulates intrinsic collagen production, thereby enhancing skin elasticity and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, it demonstrates the ability to activate and protect telomerase, potentially restoring cellular function and firming sagging skin, while also preventing collagen degradation induced by UV exposure. The extract also boosts hyaluronic acid synthesis for superior hydration, reinforces the skin's barrier integrity against environmental aggressors, and exhibits anti-blemish characteristics. It promotes skin regeneration by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and provides antimicrobial benefits through its Astragalus polysaccharides, simultaneously reducing UVA-induced DNA damage.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 An in-vivo manufacturer's study utilizing a liposomal Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract reported a 20% increase in skin hydration, firmness, and smoothness after 14 days. This study also noted a 10-15% reduction in blemish-prone signs over 42 days.
- 02 General clinical trials observed improvements in overall skin hydration, tone, and a reduction in wrinkles with the application of Astragalus membranaceus extract.
- 03 One study indicated an increase in collagen production with topical application of an extract containing 8.7% Astragalus membranaceus alongside Centella asiatica saponins.
- 04 An in-vitro study demonstrated that Astragalus membranaceus fermented by *Lactiplantibacillus plantarum* at 0.01% exhibited a high radical scavenging ability (85.67%), alongside enhanced anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While concentrations as low as 0.01% have demonstrated potent in-vitro antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, the most significant in-vivo cosmetic benefits, such as increased hydration, firmness, and blemish reduction, were observed at a 2% concentration. Formulations utilizing concentrations below 2% may not deliver the comprehensive results demonstrated in human trials, indicating that formulations with less than 0.01% might be considered underdosed for core benefits, though lower amounts could still offer some targeted effects.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The polysaccharides derived from Astragalus membranaceus are readily water-soluble but insoluble in alcohol. Research on Astragalus membranaceus polysaccharide extraction indicates optimal yields increase with temperature up to 60 °C and then stabilize. However, these parameters pertain to the raw material extraction process and do not directly define the stability requirements for the final cosmetic ingredient in a finished formulation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated yeast-derived ingredients, but has not specifically reviewed 'Saccharomyces/Astragalus Membranaceus Root Ferment Extract'. However, *Saccharomyces cerevisiae* is recognized as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food use up to 5%. Oral toxicity studies of *Astragalus membranaceus* root extract in rats showed no mortality or toxicity signs at single doses up to 5000 mg/kg and repeated doses up to 4000 mg/kg/day. Topical application of *Astragalus membranaceus* has demonstrated low toxicity in in-vitro assessments. The European Commission's CosIng database lists Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract as a skin conditioning agent, with no specific SCCS opinions regarding its safety.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
With robust clinical evidence supporting its efficacy in enhancing hydration, improving firmness, and visibly addressing signs of aging and blemishes, this fermented extract is a valuable ingredient for comprehensive skin revitalization.
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