Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract functions through a dual mechanism. Angelica dahurica root components, enhanced by fermentation, exert anti-inflammatory action by suppressing the NF-κB pathway and inhibiting the expression of COX-2 and iNOS, thereby reducing inflammatory mediators like prostaglandin E2 and nitric oxide. It also promotes skin metabolism, improves micro-circulation, and exhibits skin brightening by inhibiting melanin synthesis. Concurrently, the Saccharomyces ferment filtrate enriches the skin with essential minerals, amino acids, beta-glucan, and vitamins, providing superior moisturization, soothing, and aiding in skin repair and luminosity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Angelica dahurica ethanolic extract (ADEE) demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects in vitro, inhibiting COX-2 and iNOS expression, and reducing prostaglandin E2 and nitric oxide production. No cytotoxicity was observed at concentrations up to 200 μg/mL, with anti-inflammatory effects noted at 50 μg/mL.
- 02 Angelica dahurica extracts were shown to significantly enhance the proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts and accelerate their cell cycle, alongside upregulating collagen I and III expression, indicating potential for wound healing and anti-aging benefits at 5 x 10^-3 g/L.
- 03 A fermented Angelica dahurica preparation (three-stage fermentation with yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and acetic acid bacteria) was found to effectively improve skin hydration, enhance brightness, and lighten pigmentation, leading to a more moist, clear, and radiant complexion (concentration not specified).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
There is no specific data available to suggest this ingredient is commonly used in 'dusting' quantities for marketing purposes, nor are there identified thresholds for such practices.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The ingredient is water-soluble. While an optimal pH range for this specific ferment extract is not defined, traditional Angelica dahurica extracts benefit from water extraction to mitigate alcohol-soluble phototoxic furanocoumarins. The fermentation process itself is theorized to potentially reduce or eliminate these compounds, enhancing stability and safety in aqueous formulations.
Conflicts
- Traditional, unprocessed Angelica dahurica extracts containing furanocoumarins may induce phototoxicity, particularly in alcohol-based systems. It is crucial to verify that the SACCHAROMYCES/ANGELICA DAHURICA ROOT FERMENT EXTRACT is free from these phototoxic compounds.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has issued an 'Insufficient Data Announcement' for many yeast-derived ingredients, requesting additional dermal sensitization data. While Saccharomyces cerevisiae is affirmed GRAS by the FDA for food use up to 5%, this specific combined ferment extract has not undergone individual review by CIR or SCCS. Historically, Angelica dahurica has been associated with phototoxicity due to furanocoumarins; however, water extraction and potentially the fermentation process are expected to significantly mitigate or eliminate these substances.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
SACCHAROMYCES/ANGELICA DAHURICA ROOT FERMENT EXTRACT offers a valuable blend of anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, brightening, and potentially anti-aging properties, though further specific clinical data and safety assessments for the combined ferment are needed to fully confirm its efficacy and safety profile.
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References
Sources