Science
Mechanism of Action
This oligopeptide exerts its effects by specifically binding to the epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) on skin cells, thereby activating critical intracellular signaling pathways. This activation stimulates cellular growth, proliferation, and differentiation, promoting robust tissue repair, increased self-regeneration, and enhanced microcirculation. It facilitates scarless healing of skin injuries, bolsters the proliferation of keratinocytes, endothelial cells, and fibroblasts to improve barrier function, and modulates inflammatory responses. Furthermore, it significantly boosts the production of extracellular matrix components, including collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid, contributing to long-term moisturization, reduced fine lines, and diminished hyperpigmentation and acne breakouts.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 For 'Oligopeptide-1' (related to GHK-Cu), a concentration range of 0.0005% to 0.5% (5 to 5000 ppm) is recommended to achieve significant activity.
- 02 Clinical evaluation of sh-Oligopeptide-1, when incorporated into an EGF-containing cream, demonstrated a statistically significant increase in skin moisture and elasticity, coupled with a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after one week of consistent use. The specific concentration of sh-Oligopeptide-1 in this cream was not detailed.
- 03 Within the first month of application, Oligopeptide-1 showed statistically significant improvements in reducing fine lines, refining skin texture, minimizing pore size, and ameliorating dyschromatic conditions.
- 04 Note: One review indicates that preclinical bioactivity of sh-oligopeptide-1 has not been definitively proven, thereby questioning the scientific foundation of some clinical studies.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Given its potent biological activity and recommended use at concentrations up to 0.5%, this ingredient is typically incorporated at levels designed for efficacy rather than as a minimal 'dusting' component.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
S-TEPIDAMORPHUS GEMMATUS OLIGOPEPTIDE-1 SP is sensitive to pH; optimal activity is maintained within a pH range of 5.0-8.0, necessitating pH adjustment of formulations prior to its inclusion. It is susceptible to enzymatic degradation by microorganisms, demanding stringent microbial control during processing. For long-term activity preservation, it must be stored at -20°C in a cool, dry, and tightly sealed environment, as prolonged exposure to room temperature can significantly reduce its activity to 5-10%. Incorporation into cosmetic formulations should occur at temperatures below 40°C during the final manufacturing stage. As a medium-sized, polar molecule, a specialized delivery system may be required to optimize skin penetration.
Safety
Safety Profile
While S-TEPIDAMORPHUS GEMMATUS OLIGOPEPTIDE-1 SP itself is not specifically rated by Paula's Choice, sh-Oligopeptide-1 is generally considered safe, compatible, and biodegradable for cosmetic applications, with various safety reports confirming its profile. It is mitogenic (stimulates cell proliferation) but not mutagenic. However, its use carries important restrictions: experts advise avoidance if you have existing cancerous cells, numerous moles, a history of excessive UV exposure, or other skin cancer risk factors, as its proliferative effects could potentially promote their spread. Individuals with psoriasis should also avoid this ingredient due to its ability to increase cell numbers. Long-term safety data, particularly regarding the specific ingredient, remains largely unknown.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
S-TEPIDAMORPHUS GEMMATUS OLIGOPEPTIDE-1 SP is a valuable, high-performance ingredient for promoting skin regeneration, repair, and anti-aging, provided that its specific stability requirements and crucial safety considerations for at-risk individuals are meticulously observed.
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