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Moumoujus

RUBUS PUNGENS LEAF/STEM EXTRACT.

Avoid / SKIN CONDITIONING

Rubus pungens Leaf/Stem Extract is derived from the plant Rubus pungens. While direct research on this specific extract is limited, insights from closely related Rubus species suggest it may possess beneficial properties such as antioxidant protection, antimicrobial action, and skin brightening effects, primarily attributed to its essential oil and phenolic compounds.

Summary

Antioxidant Antimicrobial Skin Brightening Anti-Aging Astringent Skin Conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

Extracts from Rubus species typically exert their biological activities through a rich profile of active compounds, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, and tannins. These components contribute to antioxidant effects by neutralizing free radicals, antimicrobial action against various pathogens, and potential anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, they may inhibit tyrosinase for skin brightening, collagenase for anti-aging benefits, and offer astringent and toning effects.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 0.001166–5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Rubus pungens var. oldhamii essential oil demonstrated potential antityrosinase activity and moderate antimicrobial efficacy at a 0.0923% concentration.
  2. 02 Ethanol extracts from a related species, Rubus caesius leaves and stems, exhibited significant antioxidant properties, inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase activity, and effectiveness against pathogenic bacteria when formulated at 5% dry extract in a hydrogel.
  3. 03 Rubus caesius leaf ethanol extract (a related species) demonstrated high capability to scavenge ABTS radicals, with an IC50 of 0.001166% (11.66 ± 0.18 µg/mL).
  4. 04 Rubus caesius stem ethanol extract (a related species) showed strong antityrosinase activity with an IC50 of 0.003239% (32.39 ± 0.36 µg/mL).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.0001%
Red flag below
0.0001%

While specific safety data for RUBUS PUNGENS LEAF/STEM EXTRACT is currently absent, studies on a closely related species, Rubus rosifolius stem extract, indicated genotoxic effects and induced apoptosis in human hepatoma (HepG2/C3A) cells at concentrations as low as 1 µg/mL (0.0001%). This extremely low concentration at which genotoxic effects were observed constitutes a significant red flag, strongly suggesting a potential danger for human use across the Rubus genus and necessitating extreme caution.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Active compounds within Rubus extracts are typically water-soluble or soluble in polar organic solvents like ethanol and methanol. A related Rubus idaeus leaf extract was observed to have a slightly acidic pH value of 4.06 ± 0.05.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Unknown

There is no specific CIR, SCCS, or FDA safety assessment available for RUBUS PUNGENS LEAF/STEM EXTRACT. Critically, investigations into related species, specifically Rubus rosifolius stem and leaf extracts, have reported genotoxic effects and induced apoptosis in human cells at very low concentrations (from 1 µg/mL). This raises a serious safety concern for human application, necessitating extensive and rigorous safety testing for R. pungens before any consideration for use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite some indications of beneficial skin properties derived from studies on Rubus pungens essential oil and related Rubus species extracts, the profound safety concern regarding genotoxic and apoptotic effects observed at extremely low concentrations in a closely related Rubus species, coupled with the complete absence of specific safety data for Rubus pungens Leaf/Stem Extract, dictates that this ingredient should be avoided in precision skincare formulations.

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