Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient is abundant in polyphenolic compounds such as ellagic acid, quercetin, kaempferol derivatives, catechins, tannins, and vitamins A, C, and E, alongside anthocyanins. Its primary mechanism involves powerful antioxidant activity, neutralizing free radicals and repairing damage from environmental aggressors. It further provides anti-inflammatory effects by moderating inflammatory pathways, thereby reducing redness and irritation. Additionally, it supports skin barrier function and hydration, helps diminish visible signs of aging by potentially stimulating collagen production, and offers astringent and purifying benefits to refine skin texture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In fibroblast cells, Rubus idaeus stem cell extract, at concentrations of 0.0025% and 0.0005%, significantly upregulated the GADD45α and SIRT-1 genes, suggesting notable protective actions against oxidative stress and DNA damage.
- 02 An in vivo study demonstrated that Red Raspberry Extract (RBE) effectively suppressed UVB-induced increases in COX-2 protein levels. This action was linked to the activation of the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and inhibition of the NF-κB pathway, indicating its potential in managing UVB-induced skin damage through antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Rubus idaeus Leaf Powder is not considered a 'dusted' ingredient due to its broad spectrum of evidence-backed benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-conditioning properties, making it a valuable active component in formulations rather than a mere filler.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Rubus idaeus extract maintains stability within a pH range of 4.0 to 8.0 and can be incorporated into formulations during the cooling phase or at the end of manufacturing, tolerating temperatures up to 70°C. Its hydrophilic nature makes it challenging to integrate into highly hydrophobic systems like lipogels, synthetic oils, and silicones, but it readily disperses in polar or weakly polar solvents.
Conflicts
- Highly hydrophobic systems (e.g., lipogels, synthetic oils, silicones)
Safety
Safety Profile
No specific CIR or SCCS safety assessments with defined maximum concentrations for cosmetic use of Rubus idaeus leaf powder or extract were identified. Per U.S. law, cosmetic ingredient safety is primarily the manufacturer's responsibility, without mandatory FDA approval. Rubus idaeus Fruit Extract is generally regarded as gentle, non-irritating, and non-comedogenic, with Red Raspberry Leaf Extract specifically listed as 'Irritant Free' by SkinSAFE. While generally considered safe, individuals with allergies to berries or sensitive skin should perform a patch test. Allergic reactions are rare but possible for those sensitive to the Rosaceae family.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus idaeus Leaf Powder offers significant value in skincare formulations due to its robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, broad skin type compatibility, and low risk of irritation or comedogenicity.
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