Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract acts as a robust antioxidant, primarily due to its rich composition of polyphenols, including anthocyanins, ellagitannins, flavonoids, and essential vitamins (C, E, A, beta-carotene, glutathione, quercetin). These compounds effectively neutralize free radicals, thereby combating oxidative stress that contributes to cellular damage and premature aging. Its anti-inflammatory properties are attributed to minerals like potassium, alongside anthocyanins and ellagitannins, which work to soothe redness and mitigate irritation. Functioning as a mild fruit acid and enzymatic exfoliant, the Vitamin C content facilitates the removal of dead skin cells and promotes cellular renewal for a refined skin texture. Furthermore, the presence of fatty acids, natural sugars, and organic acids helps to moisturize the skin and fortify its natural protective barrier, enhancing softness and hydration. It can also support collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and inhibit enzymes linked to discoloration.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.3%
Key findings
- 01 87.42% hydrogen peroxide free radical scavenging, 91.12% DPPH free radical inhibition, 80% bovine serum albumin denaturation prevention, 77% egg albumin protein denaturation prevention.
- 02 26 mm zone of inhibition against Streptococcus mutans, 24 mm zone of inhibition against Candida albicans.
- 03 Protection against UVB-induced cell death and injury (wrinkling, scaling, tanning, water loss, epidermal thickening), abolition of oxidative damage, attenuation of protein carbonylation, and suppression of inflammatory and apoptotic pathways.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research data does not contain information to assess if Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract is commonly dusted or to establish a dusting threshold.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract exhibits solubility in water and alcohol but is insoluble in lipophilic environments, making its incorporation challenging in highly hydrophobic systems like lipogels, synthetic oils, and silicones. It integrates effectively into polar or weakly polar solvents. A stem cell derived variant demonstrates stability across a pH range of 4.0 to 8.0 and tolerates temperatures up to 70°C, permitting addition during the cooling phase or at the final stage of formulation.
Conflicts
- Very hydrophobic systems (lipogels, synthetic oils, silicones)
Safety
Safety Profile
While cosmetic incorporation rates are not federally regulated, suppliers recommend usage between 0.3% and 10%. It is generally considered gentle and non-irritating, with a low comedogenic profile suitable for most skin types. However, due to its tannin content, individuals with highly sensitive skin or known berry allergies may experience minor irritation, thus patch testing is advised. The ingredient adheres to European Union cosmetic regulations, ensuring safety and efficacy.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
With robust antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective properties demonstrated across in vitro and in vivo models, alongside broad skin compatibility, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract is a highly valuable ingredient for diverse skincare formulations.
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References
Sources
- nih.gov ↗
- researchgate.net ↗
- typology.com ↗
- sincereskincare.com ↗
- specialchem.com ↗
- lesielle.com ↗
- paulaschoice-eu.com ↗
- cosmeticsandtoiletries.com ↗
- incidecoder.com ↗
- ijcrt.org ↗
- mdpi.com ↗
- shopbarkx.com ↗
- makingcosmetics.com ↗