Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract is a rich source of polyphenols, including anthocyanins and ellagitannins, alongside Vitamin C and ellagic acid. It functions as a powerful antioxidant by neutralizing damaging free radicals and upregulating the skin's intrinsic antioxidant defense systems, such as Superoxide Dismutase (SOD), Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and Heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1). It also exhibits significant anti-inflammatory actions by modulating key inflammatory pathways like NF-κB and COX-2, thereby reducing redness and irritation. Furthermore, its fatty acid profile contributes to moisturizing benefits, enhancing the skin's hydration and fortifying the natural barrier. An oil-soluble variant has been shown to stimulate the expression of hydration-related genes (aquaporin 3, filaggrin, involucrin, hyaluronic acid synthase) and ceramide synthesis. The Vitamin C content supports collagen production for improved firmness and elasticity, and it offers protection against UVB-induced cellular damage.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated a reduction in oxidative stress induced by Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) in cultured fibroblasts.
- 02 Significantly enhanced the proliferation of HaCaT cells (human keratinocytes).
- 03 Effectively promoted a reduction in wound area.
- 04 Protected human epidermal keratinocytes from UVB-induced cell death and mitigated various UVB-exposed skin injuries (e.g., wrinkling, scaling, tanning, water loss, epidermal thickening). It also counteracted oxidative DNA damage and protein carbonylation by activating SOD, Nrf2, and HO-1, while reducing inflammatory markers like c-jun, NF-κB, and COX-2.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While specific optimal percentages from human clinical trials are varied or not fully quantified for topical application, suppliers generally recommend a functional concentration range of 0.3% to 10%. Amounts below 0.3% would likely be considered insufficient for the observed benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract demonstrates optimal stability and efficacy within an acidic pH range, typically between 3.5 and 5.5. Some specific preparations may tolerate a broader range, such as 3.0-4.5 or 4.0-6.5 depending on the solvent system (e.g., water and glycerin).
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has assessed 'Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil' but not specifically 'Rubus Idaeus Extract' (fruit or leaf). Generally, the extract is considered well-tolerated and non-irritating in cosmetic formulations. However, due to its tannin content, individuals with highly sensitive skin or known berry allergies should perform a patch test.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Idaeus Extract is a valuable ingredient due to its comprehensive benefits, including robust antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, deep hydration, and significant photoprotection across all skin types with a low risk of irritation.
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