Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates at a cellular level, acting as a powerful antioxidant by protecting against oxidative stress and enhancing DNA integrity, partly by boosting SIRT-1 gene expression. It reinforces the skin's natural barrier and significantly improves hydration by stimulating genes responsible for crucial moisture-binding components like Aquaporin 3, Filaggrin, Involucrin, and Hyaluronic Acid Synthase. Furthermore, it promotes ceramide production by activating Glucocerebrosidase, supports extracellular matrix components, stimulates collagen synthesis, and possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.0025%
Key findings
- 01 At concentrations of 0.0025% and 0.0005%, the extract demonstrably increased SIRT-1 gene expression by 60%, offered protection against oxidative stress (reducing H2O2-induced inhibition of SIRT-1), and improved DNA integrity in skin cells.
- 02 An oil-soluble form of the extract, when tested on cultured keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and human skin in vivo, activated genes vital for skin hydration, including Aquaporin 3, Filaggrin, Involucrin, and Hyaluronic Acid Synthase. It also stimulated Glucocerebrosidase, leading to enhanced ceramide production, and increased the synthesis of extracellular matrix components, resulting in notable skin hydration.
- 03 In a clinical setting, a serum incorporating this extract alongside vitamins C and E showed marked improvements in skin tone, elasticity, radiance, and smoothness, while also reducing scaliness and the appearance of wrinkles.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Rubus Idaeus Callus Extract exhibits excellent stability across a pH range of 4.0 to 8.0 and can endure temperatures up to 70°C, making it suitable for addition during the cooling phase or at the final stages of formulation. While its hydrosoluble form is easily incorporated into polar solvents, it may prove challenging to integrate into highly hydrophobic systems such as lipogels, synthetic oils, and silicones. Oil-soluble variants are also available for broader formulation flexibility.
Conflicts
- Highly hydrophobic systems (e.g., lipogels, synthetic oils, silicones) for hydrosoluble forms
Safety
Safety Profile
The specific CIR, SCCS, or FDA status for 'Rubus idaeus callus extract' is currently unknown. However, the broader Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract is generally regarded as gentle and non-irritating, typically non-comedogenic for most skin types. Due to potential tannin content, a patch test is recommended for individuals with highly sensitive skin or known berry allergies.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Idaeus Callus Extract is a valuable, multi-beneficial plant stem cell ingredient, offering significant antioxidant, hydrating, and anti-aging properties, supported by robust cellular and in-vivo research across various skin types.
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