Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract, though primarily studied from fruit and leaf, is understood to deliver its benefits through a rich profile of bioactive compounds including polyphenols, flavonoids, vitamin C, ellagic acid, and anthocyanins. These components collectively combat oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, which in turn helps to mitigate signs of aging and enhance skin brightness. Its anti-inflammatory properties soothe irritation, reduce redness, and calm inflammation. Furthermore, certain constituents like fatty acids contribute to maintaining skin hydration and reinforcing the natural skin barrier. Research on an oil-soluble Rubus idaeus leaf cell extract indicates its capacity to upregulate genes crucial for skin hydration (aquaporin 3, filaggrin, involucrin, hyaluronic acid synthase) and stimulate ceramide production via glucocerebrosidase, leading to improved skin hydration and elasticity. The extract also demonstrates potential to inhibit enzymes contributing to skin discoloration and firmness loss, offer protection against UVB-induced damage, and, due to its vitamin C content, provide mild exfoliating and purifying effects for a smoother complexion.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Strong antioxidant activity was observed in Rubus idaeus shoot extract, measured by a DPPH assay with an EC50 value of 19.4 µg/ml.
- 02 Rubus idaeus shoot extract demonstrated cytotoxic activity against HL-60 cells at an IC50 of 110 µg/ml, showing higher activity compared to HeLa cells (IC50 300 µg/ml).
- 03 Recommended incorporation rate for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract by main suppliers ranges from 0.3% to 10%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract has a recommended incorporation rate starting at 0.3%, the upper limit extends to 10%, suggesting beneficial effects are expected across a range of concentrations. The broad recommended range indicates it is typically integrated as an active ingredient, not merely for minimal inclusion.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract generally exhibits water solubility and maintains stability within a pH range of 3.0 to 10.0. Stability can be enhanced through the addition of methanol. It's noted that Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract specifically has a reported optimal pH range of 3.0-4.5, which may influence formulation decisions.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically reviewed Rubus Idaeus Bud Extract. While Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract is generally considered gentle, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract is listed as 'Restricted' by EWG, necessitating thorough substantiation for use in EWG VERIFIED products. As specific safety data for the bud extract is limited, patch testing is advisable for individuals with known berry allergies or particularly sensitive skin.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Idaeus Bud Extract is a valuable botanical offering significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating benefits, supported by a favorable skin compatibility profile and research on related plant parts, making it a promising ingredient for comprehensive skin health.
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