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Moumoujus

RUBUS FRUTICOSUS LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 84787-69-9 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

Rubus Fruticosus Leaf Extract, derived from the blackberry plant, is a multi-functional botanical ingredient offering significant antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory benefits. It actively protects the skin from environmental damage, supports collagen integrity, and promotes a more even, hydrated complexion.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin-Conditioning Agent Astringent Anti-aging Anti-inflammatory Hydrating Exfoliating Antimicrobial Skin Brightening

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract acts as a potent antioxidant, rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and vitamins C and E, effectively neutralizing free radicals from UV exposure and pollution to combat oxidative stress. Its anti-aging efficacy stems from inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, -2, -9), enzymes responsible for collagen degradation, thus preserving skin elasticity and minimizing fine lines. The ingredient also demonstrates anti-inflammatory action by reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1alpha, soothing irritation and redness. Additionally, it offers hydrating and moisturizing properties, reinforces the skin barrier, and contributes to skin brightening by addressing hyperpigmentation. Natural fruit acids within the extract provide mild exfoliating and regenerating effects, while its astringent and antimicrobial qualities help to refine pores and balance sebum production, making it beneficial across diverse skin needs.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–0.2%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated an almost complete inhibition of MMP-1 protein levels in both non-irradiated and UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. This concentration also achieved a 59% reduction in MMP-1 mRNA expression in UVA-irradiated cells with a combined pre- and post-treatment regimen.
  2. 02 Resulted in a 40% inhibition of the inflammatory cytokine IL-1alpha when compared to a stimulated control group.
  3. 03 Exhibited strong inhibitory activity against monoamine oxidase B (MAO-B), which contributes to the ingredient's antioxidant and stress-combating potential.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Insufficient data available to determine dusting potential for this ingredient.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 4.5
0 7 14

Stability

Typically prepared via aqueous-ethanolic extraction, suggesting good stability in water-based formulations. While a specific optimal pH for the leaf extract is not provided, the related Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract functions optimally within a pH range of 3.5-4.5, implying a potential preference for slightly acidic conditions for extracts containing leaf components.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) have not extensively reviewed Rubus Fruticosus Leaf Extract. While oral, dermal, and inhalation toxicity are 'Not determined' by The Good Scents Company, the US FDA has designated 'Blackberry Extract' (Rubus Fruticosus, Ext.) as safe for general or specific food flavoring uses. Allergic reactions are considered rare, but individuals with known berry allergies or sensitive skin are advised to perform patch testing.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Rubus Fruticosus Leaf Extract is a valuable, multi-functional botanical offering significant antioxidant protection, anti-aging benefits through MMP inhibition, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it highly suitable for diverse skincare formulations.

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