Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract acts as a potent antioxidant, rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and vitamins C and E, effectively neutralizing free radicals from UV exposure and pollution to combat oxidative stress. Its anti-aging efficacy stems from inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, -2, -9), enzymes responsible for collagen degradation, thus preserving skin elasticity and minimizing fine lines. The ingredient also demonstrates anti-inflammatory action by reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1alpha, soothing irritation and redness. Additionally, it offers hydrating and moisturizing properties, reinforces the skin barrier, and contributes to skin brightening by addressing hyperpigmentation. Natural fruit acids within the extract provide mild exfoliating and regenerating effects, while its astringent and antimicrobial qualities help to refine pores and balance sebum production, making it beneficial across diverse skin needs.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated an almost complete inhibition of MMP-1 protein levels in both non-irradiated and UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. This concentration also achieved a 59% reduction in MMP-1 mRNA expression in UVA-irradiated cells with a combined pre- and post-treatment regimen.
- 02 Resulted in a 40% inhibition of the inflammatory cytokine IL-1alpha when compared to a stimulated control group.
- 03 Exhibited strong inhibitory activity against monoamine oxidase B (MAO-B), which contributes to the ingredient's antioxidant and stress-combating potential.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Insufficient data available to determine dusting potential for this ingredient.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Typically prepared via aqueous-ethanolic extraction, suggesting good stability in water-based formulations. While a specific optimal pH for the leaf extract is not provided, the related Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract functions optimally within a pH range of 3.5-4.5, implying a potential preference for slightly acidic conditions for extracts containing leaf components.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) have not extensively reviewed Rubus Fruticosus Leaf Extract. While oral, dermal, and inhalation toxicity are 'Not determined' by The Good Scents Company, the US FDA has designated 'Blackberry Extract' (Rubus Fruticosus, Ext.) as safe for general or specific food flavoring uses. Allergic reactions are considered rare, but individuals with known berry allergies or sensitive skin are advised to perform patch testing.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Fruticosus Leaf Extract is a valuable, multi-functional botanical offering significant antioxidant protection, anti-aging benefits through MMP inhibition, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it highly suitable for diverse skincare formulations.
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