Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several precise biological pathways to foster skin health. It significantly reduces inflammation by inhibiting the production of key pro-inflammatory mediators such as nitric oxide (NO), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), and numerous cytokines (e.g., TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, IL-4, IL-5, IL-12, IFN-γ, TARC), while simultaneously downregulating inflammatory chemokines and the NF-κB signaling pathway. Functioning as a robust antioxidant, it scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS) and bolsters the skin's intrinsic antioxidant defenses by enhancing the activity of enzymes like catalase, superoxide dismutase, and glutathione peroxidase. Furthermore, it improves skin barrier integrity by elevating the mRNA expression of structural proteins, specifically filaggrin and involucrin, and demonstrates anti-allergic properties by diminishing β-hexosaminidase and histamine release from mast cells. Its rich composition includes polyphenols, tannins, phenolic acids, organic acids, triterpenoids, flavonoids, gallotannin, ellagitannin, and anthocyanins.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.01%
Key findings
- 01 In *in vitro* studies (100-200 µg/mL, equivalent to 0.01-0.02%), Rubus Coreanus Root Extract significantly reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), increased antioxidant enzyme activity (catalase, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase), downregulated pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6), decreased inflammatory chemokines, and boosted mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin in TNF-α/IFN-γ-stimulated HaCaT cells.
- 02 Topical application in DNCB-treated NC/Nga mice dramatically reduced the severity of skin symptoms, including thickening and swelling associated with atopic dermatitis. It also lowered protein and mRNA expression of cytokines (IL-4, IL-5, IL-12, IFN-γ, TNF-α, TARC) and IgE, while reducing β-hexosaminidase and histamine release from mast cells.
- 03 *In vitro* assessments (0.1-100%) also demonstrated anti-inflammatory and anti-acne efficacy, with cell viability observed at 840 mg/ml in LPS and INF-γ-induced Raw 26*7 cells.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While some *in vitro* studies suggest efficacy in a broad range up to 100%, the most precisely documented cellular benefits, including significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and barrier support, are observed within the 0.01% to 0.02% (100-200 µg/mL) concentration range without inducing cytotoxicity. Consequently, formulations containing concentrations substantially below 0.01% may not deliver these specific clinical benefits and could be indicative of 'dusting'.
The Formula
Formulation
Safety
Safety Profile
No specific safety assessments by major regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA have been reported for Rubus Coreanus Root Extract. *In vitro* studies indicate a non-toxic concentration range of 0.01-0.02% (100-200 µg/mL) for Rubus coreanus water extract in HaCaT cells, with cell viability notably decreasing at 0.06% (600 µg/mL). Other *in vitro* research found no cytotoxicity for various Rubus coreanus extracts at concentrations up to 100 µg/mL.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Coreanus Root Extract is a valuable botanical ingredient, offering comprehensive benefits for calming inflammation, combating oxidative stress, and fortifying the skin barrier, supported by robust *in vitro* and animal data.
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References
Sources