Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several key pathways. Its high concentration of Vitamins C and E, carotenoids, and polyphenols like ellagic acid and quercetin provides robust antioxidant defense against free radicals and UV-induced stress, thereby delaying visible signs of aging. Furthermore, it modulates inflammatory responses, offering a calming effect beneficial for various skin sensitivities. Vitamin C stimulates neocollagenesis, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity, while essential fatty acids (Omega 3, 6, 9, Linoleic, Alpha-Linolenic) fortify the skin's natural lipid barrier, optimizing moisture retention and smoothness. Clinical data also highlights its antimicrobial efficacy against Gram-positive bacteria and an inhibitory effect on elastase, contributing to clearer, more resilient skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated strong antimicrobial activity against Gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus and methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), achieving total bacterial elimination within 24 hours.
- 02 Exhibited significant anti-elastase activity, inhibiting the elastase enzyme by 80.3% relative to a control, contributing to the maintenance of skin elasticity.
- 03 Suggested for beneficial use in body lotions and facial serums, indicating a range for broader cosmetic applications.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Clinical studies and industry recommendations suggest effective incorporation at concentrations between 0.5% and 5%, indicating it is not typically 'dusted' at sub-efficacious levels for marketing purposes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Key active compounds, particularly ellagitannins, are stable in acidic conditions (e.g., pH 3.7-4) but are susceptible to rapid degradation in neutral or mildly basic media at elevated temperatures (60–80 °C). At pH 6, ellagitannins can also hydrolyze. For optimal shelf life, especially for the oil form, storage in a cool (preferably below 10 °C), dark, and dry environment is recommended for at least two years. Encapsulation can improve the storage stability of its phenolic compounds.
Safety
Safety Profile
Reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel in 2010 as part of 'Plant-Derived Edible Oils' and deemed safe for use in cosmetics under current practices. Generally considered safe and well-tolerated; however, individuals with known sensitivities to berry oils should perform a patch test. It complies with EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and is rated by SkinSAFE as 'Teen SAFE', 'Baby SAFE', 'Eyelid SAFE', 'Fragrance Free', 'Paraben Free', 'Irritant Free', 'Dye Free', and 'SLS Free'.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract is a highly valuable, multi-functional ingredient that provides broad-spectrum benefits, including potent antioxidant protection, barrier support, anti-aging effects, and antimicrobial activity, making it suitable for a wide range of precision skincare formulations and all skin types.
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