Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract acts as a potent antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals and mitigating oxidative stress. Its anti-melanogenic action stems from its ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine oxidation, effectively suppressing melanin biosynthesis. Furthermore, it demonstrates marked inhibitory effects against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase—enzymes critical for the degradation of the skin's structural proteins and hyaluronic acid—thereby protecting the extracellular matrix and reducing visible signs of aging. Broader rose extracts are also recognized for contributing anti-inflammatory, hydrating, and collagen-stimulating benefits.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An aqueous-ethanolic dry extract of Rosa luciae has been shown to possess significant antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-aging activities in a clinical study. It effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine oxidation, thereby suppressing melanin biosynthesis. Additionally, the extract exhibited potent inhibitory effects against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase, key enzymes involved in the degradation of the extracellular matrix and the progression of skin aging.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While specific optimal pH for Rosa luciae extract is not documented, general rose extracts often contain anthocyanins. These water-soluble pigments typically demonstrate good stability in acidic to neutral conditions, with stability reported in ranges such as pH 3 to pH 8, and enhanced thermal stability observed around pH 7.
Conflicts
- The extract may contain volatile components such as citronellol and geraniol, identified as fragrance allergens. If present in the final product above 0.001% in leave-on formulations or 0.01% in rinse-off formulations, these components require specific labeling.
- While generally well-tolerated, some individuals with highly sensitive skin may experience irritation, a potential observed with extracts from related Rosa species like Rosa centifolia, though this is uncommon.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically evaluated ROSA LUCIAE BRANCH/FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT. However, related rose ingredients from other species, such as Rosa centifolia and Rosa damascena, have generally been deemed safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-sensitizing. The US FDA recognizes essential oils and natural extractives from various rose species as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food consumption. Due to the potential presence of fragrance allergens like citronellol and geraniol, labeling is required if their concentrations exceed specific thresholds (0.001% for leave-on products, 0.01% for rinse-off products).
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rosa luciae extract is a valuable ingredient, demonstrating potent antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-aging activities through precise enzymatic inhibition, rendering it highly beneficial for comprehensive skin rejuvenation, despite the absence of specific CIR review.
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