Science
Mechanism of Action
Rich in bioactive compounds such as Vitamin C, flavonoids, and polyphenols, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract delivers robust antioxidant protection against free radical damage, actively slowing the visible signs of aging. Its high ascorbic acid content is instrumental in reducing hyperpigmentation, fading dark spots, and promoting an even skin tone, while simultaneously stimulating collagen synthesis for improved elasticity. Essential fatty acids, including linoleic and oleic acid, provide deep moisturization and support skin barrier repair, leading to a softer and smoother texture. Additionally, the extract contains anti-inflammatory agents that calm irritation and reduce redness, alongside beta-carotene (a Vitamin A precursor) and Vitamin E, which further stimulate regeneration and enhance skin texture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.05%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrates antioxidant and brightening capabilities, improving skin tone, boosting collagen, and reducing inflammation in face serums and toners.
- 02 Provides hydration, strengthens the skin barrier, and enhances regeneration and smoothness in moisturizers and creams.
- 03 Offers mild anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, contributing to skin calming during cleansing in facial cleansers.
- 04 Nourishes and protects with antioxidants, repairs dry/chapped lips, and improves lip smoothness in lip care formulations.
- 05 Brightens the delicate eye area, soothes puffiness, and diminishes signs of fatigue in eye-specific products.
- 06 Exhibited superior free radical neutralization and increased cell viability by inhibiting apoptosis in human umbilical vein endothelial cell injury.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract is used in dusting and talcum powders, where a maximum concentration of 0.01% is advised, and in face powders, with a maximum of 0.002%. These limits are in place to manage potential hazardous cumulative levels of botanical constituents and to ensure impurities, such as heavy metals, remain within safe limits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The Vitamin C and other antioxidant components of Rosa Canina Fruit Extract are susceptible to degradation upon exposure to air, light, or elevated temperatures. For optimal antioxidant capacity, formulations should ideally maintain a pH of 4.5. A pH range of 4.5-5.0 is also optimal during the enzymolysis extraction process.
Conflicts
- High temperatures (causes degradation of Vitamin C and other antioxidants)
- Light exposure (causes degradation of Vitamin C and other antioxidants)
- Air exposure (causes degradation of Vitamin C and other antioxidants)
- Formulations leading to hazardous cumulative levels of botanical constituents, particularly in sensitive areas like the eyes or mucous membranes
- Application on open wounds or broken skin (may induce stinging or discomfort)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Rosa canina-derived ingredients safe at current use concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. While the FDA recognizes rose fruit (hips) as safe for food use, specific maximum concentrations apply to cosmetic formulations: up to 0.2% in eye area products, 0.0015% in lipstick, 0.01% in dusting/talcum powders, and 0.002% in face powders. An older survey indicated use up to 7% in face and neck products. Formulators must carefully consider cumulative botanical levels and adhere to Good Manufacturing Practices (cGMPs) to limit potential impurities like heavy metals (antimony, arsenic, nickel, lead, selenium), which are typically found at levels below 2 ppm or a total of 20 ppm. Despite generally low irritancy, its natural Vitamin C content may cause mild tingling or redness in individuals with highly sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin (e.g., rosacea, eczema, dermatitis), necessitating a patch test.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient providing significant antioxidant protection, brightening, and conditioning benefits across various skin types, supported by robust clinical data for diverse product applications.
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