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Moumoujus

RIBES NIGRUM LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 68606-81-5 / PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Derived from blackcurrant leaves, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract is a multi-functional botanical ingredient prized for its potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin barrier-strengthening properties. It offers a sophisticated approach to modulating skin responses, promoting hydration, and encouraging gentle cell renewal for a balanced, soothed, and vibrant complexion.

Summary

Skin conditioning Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Exfoliating (gentle) Hydrating Skin barrier strengthening Sebum oxidation control Perfuming

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract is rich in bioactive compounds such as flavonols and anthocyanins, which are key to its therapeutic effects. It exhibits a preferential ability to inhibit IFN-γ-mediated inflammation, suggesting a targeted response against certain inflammatory pathways (Th1 type). Furthermore, it reduces the expression of adhesion molecules like ICAM-1 and genes involved in immune cell recruitment (CCL2, CCL7, CSF2, CXCL5), thereby calming inflammatory reactions, soothing symptoms such as tightness, itching, and redness. Its robust antioxidant capacity combats free radical damage and oxidative stress. The extract also provides a gentle exfoliating action through natural AHAs, aiding in the removal of dead skin cells and stimulating cellular turnover. Additionally, it supplies amino acids and essential fatty acids to enhance skin hydration and fortify the skin barrier, while for oily and acne-prone skin, it helps to mitigate sebum oxidation and protect squalene.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated wound-healing properties in vivo.
  2. 02 Inhibited the overexpression of genes associated with monocyte and granulocyte recruitment (CCL2, CCL7, CSF2, CXCL5) in TNF-α-challenged HaCaT cells.
  3. 03 Reduced TNF-α- and IFN-γ-induced s-ICAM-1 release in HaCaT cells, with a stronger inhibitory effect on IFN-γ-induced responses.
  4. 04 Beneficial for human umbilical vein endothelial cell (HUVEC) function, activating nitric oxide synthase (eNOS) and increasing CD39 expression.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is typically prepared using aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solvents, indicating good water solubility. Extraction processes have shown stability across a pH range of 2 to 7, but specific optimal pH for finished cosmetic product stability has not been explicitly defined.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not formally reviewed Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract. However, 'CURRANT LEAVES, BLACK (RIBES NIGRUM L.)' is listed by the FDA as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for flavoring. In vitro studies observed no cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells up to 250 μg/mL and in ARPE-19 cells up to 80 μg/mL. Precision in concentration is crucial, as while lower concentrations (e.g., 2.5 μg GAE/ml) were beneficial for endothelial cells, concentrations exceeding 30 μg GAE/ml were found to cause damage to these cells.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract is a valuable botanical for diverse skincare applications, offering well-researched anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and barrier-supporting benefits with a low risk of irritation, provided concentrations are carefully considered.

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