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RETYNIL FORMYL ASPARTAMATE.

Valuable CAS 442662-22-8 / ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate is an advanced, newly synthesized retinol derivative engineered for enhanced stability and targeted efficacy. It functions by converting into retinoic acid within the skin, stimulating collagen synthesis and refining skin structure to visibly diminish wrinkles, while also providing antioxidant protection.

Summary

anti-aging antioxidant skin conditioning collagen boosting wrinkle reduction skin smoothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a cutting-edge retinol derivative, Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate efficiently penetrates the epidermis, where it undergoes oxidation to form retinoic acid. This active metabolite then engages with specific RAR/RXR receptors, critically stimulating the synthesis of Type I collagen and glycosaminoglycans, which leads to improved skin architecture and a reduction in wrinkle depth. Beyond its regenerative actions, it acts as an antioxidant, inhibiting oxygen-promoted reactions, and is classified as a skin conditioning emollient that softens and smooths the skin, with an effect on collagenase expression levels similar to retinol.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate is characterized as a photostable retinol derivative, a significant advantage that mitigates the common degradation issues of pure retinol caused by light, oxygen, water, metal ions, and elevated temperatures. While specific optimal pH data for this derivative is not available, general retinol stability is noted to be better at neutral to higher pH values (7-11), with rapid degradation occurring at pH 3 for free retinol. Retinyl palmitate, a related ester, has shown stability between pH 5.6 and 7.0.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Although Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate itself has not been individually reviewed by CIR, SCCS, or FDA, it is a retinol derivative. The CIR Expert Panel has affirmed the safety of retinol and retinyl esters as cosmetic ingredients across common use concentrations, a conclusion reiterated in 2008 and 2013. Its photostable nature helps address concerns of photoinstability and irritation associated with pure retinol. In a clinical trial, it was generally effective without severe adverse effects, though one participant (1 out of 29) reported burning and prickling, leading to withdrawal.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate is a valuable, photostable retinol derivative that effectively reduces signs of photodamage and aging by boosting collagen and improving skin texture, with a generally low irritation profile.

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