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RETINYL FORMYL ASPARTAMATE.

Insufficient Data CAS 442662-22-8 / ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate is a novel, photostable retinol derivative engineered to enhance skin structure and reduce signs of photodamage. It functions as a precursor, converting to the active retinoic acid form within the skin to exert its rejuvenating effects.

Summary

Anti-aging Collagen synthesis stimulation Glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulation Skin structure improvement Reduction of transepidermal water loss Collagen degradation protection Metalloproteinase inhibition Wrinkle reduction Skin firmness improvement Photodamage repair Skin roughness improvement

Science

Mechanism of Action

Upon dermal penetration, Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate undergoes a precise enzymatic conversion process. Initially, esterases transform it into retinol, which is then further metabolized into retinal by specific enzymes, and finally into retinoic acid. This biologically active retinoic acid engages with specific RAR/RXR receptors, modulating cellular processes critical for skin health, including cell differentiation, proliferation, and apoptosis. This intricate cascade promotes improved skin architecture, stimulates collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, diminishes transepidermal water loss, safeguards existing collagen from degradation, and inhibits metalloproteinase activity, collectively leading to reduced wrinkles and enhanced skin firmness.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This newly synthesized retinol derivative exhibits enhanced photostability compared to pure retinol, which is known for its susceptibility to photodegradation. As a lipophilic compound, raw material in powder form is recommended for storage at -20°C for up to 3 years, and in solvent at -80°C for up to 1 year to maintain its stability.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Unknown

There is currently no specific Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) assessment or FDA status for Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate. While general CIR conclusions exist for retinol and retinyl palmitate as safe cosmetic ingredients, and the SCCS has reviewed Vitamin A (retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate) suggesting safety up to 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) in body lotion and 0.3% RE in other leave-on products, these guidelines do not explicitly cover this specific derivative. One clinical study reported mild, transient burning and prickling sensations in a single patient, but no severe adverse effects were noted overall.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Insufficient Data

Retinyl Formyl Aspartamate demonstrates promising efficacy in improving photodamaged skin and roughness, but specific, comprehensive safety data for this particular derivative remains insufficient for a definitive rating.

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