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RESEDA LUTEOLA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90106-16-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING

RESEDA LUTEOLA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT is a botanical ingredient rich in flavonoids, including luteolin and apigenin, derived from the Dyer's Rocket plant. This extract is recognized for its comprehensive benefits, particularly in mitigating skin inflammation, combating oxidative stress, and promoting a more even skin tone.

Summary

Skin conditioning Soothing Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Skin brightening UV protective (adjunctive)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract primarily acts through its high concentration of flavonoids, notably luteolin and apigenin. It exhibits significant anti-inflammatory effects by effectively reducing UVB-induced erythema and other inflammatory pathways. Its potent antioxidant properties help neutralize free radicals, thereby protecting skin from oxidative damage. Luteolin, a key constituent, also contributes to UV protection by partially absorbing UVA and UVB radiation. Furthermore, it demonstrates skin brightening capabilities by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, responsible for melanin production, via chelation of copper at its active site. In specific cell studies, its flavonoid content has shown antiproliferative and pro-apoptotic activities.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range ≥2.5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Topical application of a 2.5% w/w solubilized Reseda luteola extract, standardized to 40% flavonoids, dose-dependently reduced UVB-induced erythema in healthy volunteers when applied 30 minutes prior to irradiation. Its efficacy was comparable to 1% w/w hydrocortisone.
  2. 02 In vitro bioassays of an ethyl acetate extract of R. luteola demonstrated 67% anti-oxidant activity, 54% anti-inflammatory activity, and 42% skin whitening activity.
  3. 03 An extract (RF-40) containing 40% flavonoids and its isolated flavonoids dose-dependently inhibited cell proliferation and induced apoptosis in PHA-stimulated peripheral blood mononuclear cells.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Based on available research, Reseda Luteola Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is not identified as an ingredient commonly 'dusted' in cosmetic formulations. The clinical data supports specific concentrations for observed benefits, suggesting its use at meaningful levels.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

A definitive optimal pH range for the extract's stability in cosmetic formulations is not formally established. However, information regarding its use as a dye suggests higher pigment stability around pH 3-4. For effective cosmetic application, the extract typically requires solubilization, often achieved with agents like polysorbate, to create stable, water-soluble preparations.

Conflicts

  • Metal ions (due to the chelating properties of its flavonoid content)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Formal safety assessments by major regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA were not found. However, a clinical study reported excellent skin tolerance, with no skin irritation observed during occlusive application of a solubilized extract on non-irradiated test sites.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Reseda Luteola Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a valuable botanical ingredient, clinically demonstrated to reduce UVB-induced erythema and offering significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and brightening benefits, alongside a low potential for skin irritation.

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