Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates as a recombinant fusion peptide, combining the actions of sh-Polypeptide-9 (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor or VEGF) and Oligopeptide-164. Its primary function involves stimulating angiogenesis, the formation of new blood vessels, which in turn enhances nutrient delivery to dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production. The peptide actively contributes to cell growth, migration, and the wound healing cascade, boosting protein synthesis for cell restructuring and accelerating skin formation by promoting the division and movement of blood vessel cells. Additionally, it improves vascular wall permeability, helps alleviate vascular spasms, and activates monocyte migration through skin layers. The VEGF component specifically ensures the viability of newly formed blood vessels by inhibiting cell death and encouraging cellular proliferation, ultimately signaling the body's natural skin repair mechanisms.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Conflicts
- Individuals with psoriasis should use products containing this ingredient with caution, as its VEGFA activity (from the sh-Polypeptide-9 component) may contribute to the progression of psoriasis.
Safety
Safety Profile
EWG Skin Deep assesses 'SH-POLYPEPTIDE-9', a constituent of this peptide, with a 'LOW' concern for cancer and does not list it on restricted or unacceptable lists. However, due to potential VEGFA activity exacerbating psoriasis, cautious use is advised for individuals with this condition. Paula's Choice indicates this specific ingredient is 'Not rated' and reports 'No known benefits'.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite a promising mechanistic profile for promoting skin repair and regeneration, the absence of specific clinical efficacy studies and a 'no known benefits' assessment from some sources means there is insufficient data to fully ascertain its efficacy in skincare formulations.
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References
Sources