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Moumoujus

QUILLAJA SAPONARIA BARK.

Valuable CAS 68990-67-0 / CLEANSING, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Derived from the Quillaja Saponaria tree, this bark extract is a natural source of saponins, offering multifunctional benefits for skin. It acts primarily as a gentle cleansing and foaming agent while also conditioning and protecting the skin from environmental stressors.

Summary

cleansing foaming surfactant emulsifying antioxidant skin conditioning exfoliant moisturizer soothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

Quillaja Saponaria Bark extract utilizes its high saponin content to function as a natural surfactant, effectively lowering surface tension to emulsify and remove surface impurities like dirt and excess oil. Beyond its cleansing action, it helps to regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for oily and combination skin types. The saponins also provide antioxidant protection against free radical damage, support a healthy skin microbiome, and gently promote natural skin renewal by removing dead skin cells. Furthermore, it aids in skin hydration by forming a protective film to prevent moisture loss and can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.7 – 5.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract's optimal pH range for a 4% solution is between 3.7 and 5.5. Saponins, particularly the QS-21 fraction, demonstrate chemical instability in aqueous solutions with a pH of 7.4 or higher and when exposed to warmer temperatures. While generally considered water-soluble, one source indicates that aqueous solutions may not be stable for extended storage due to very low solubility, a point that contradicts other solubility findings.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract is considered safe for topical cosmetic application and non-toxic. While generally well-tolerated, individual allergic reactions or sensitivities may occur, necessitating patch testing and adherence to recommended usage levels. The EPA has classified it as non-dermal irritant, having low acute dermal and oral toxicity, and not a dermal sensitizer. For oral ingestion, it is recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA as a natural flavoring and emulsifier in beverages.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Quillaja Saponaria Bark is a valuable, natural multi-tasker, offering gentle cleansing, sebum regulation, antioxidant protection, and skin conditioning benefits with low irritancy for most skin types.

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