Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a non-surfactant dispersing agent, an emulsion stabilizer, and a nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent. It facilitates the formation of finely dispersed oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, thereby influencing the textural and flow properties of cosmetic products. Its unique structural properties allow it to thicken lipid-dominant formulations, suspend solid particulates like pigments, and enhance product adherence for improved wear.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.8%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While insoluble, Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite readily disperses in low to medium-polar organic liquids such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone, mineral oil, isododecane, or castor oil. Optimal dispersion and full activation require high shear mixing for 10-20 minutes at elevated temperatures (typically 55–60°C or 65–100°C) within the oil phase, followed by continuous blending during the cool-down phase.
Conflicts
- Incorporation at excessively high concentrations may result in a drying sensation, contingent on the overall formulation.
- High concentrations can impart an undesirable grey discoloration to the final product.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel affirms the safety of alkonium clays, including Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite, for topical cosmetic application at concentrations up to 0.8%. This safety is contingent on formulations being designed to be non-irritating. Specific SCCS or FDA assessments were not identified within the provided research data.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
QUATERNIUM-90 MONTMORILLONITE is a valuable rheology modifier and emulsion stabilizer, particularly effective in oil-based systems and color cosmetics, offering precise textural enhancement and improved product performance when formulated within its established 0.8% maximum concentration.
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