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QUATERNIUM-90 BENTONITE.

Valuable CAS 226226-22-8 / VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Quaternium-90 Bentonite is a sophisticated rheological additive, formed from the reaction of Bentonite clay and Quaternium-90. It is engineered to precisely control the viscosity and texture of cosmetic formulations, particularly in oil-based systems, enhancing product stability and sensory feel.

Viscosity Controlling Rheological Additive Stabilizer Texture Enhancer Pigment Suspending Agent

Science

This ingredient functions by undergoing a cation exchange process, which transforms the naturally hydrophilic Bentonite clay into a lipophilic compound. This modification allows it to efficiently thicken oil-based formulations and maintain the uniform suspension of powdered pigments. Its action as a rheological modifier contributes to product stability, a consistent smooth texture, a matte finish, and improved adhesion and wear time in color cosmetics.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2.75–5.924%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Eyeliner formulated with this concentration was well tolerated in a 4-week use test, despite initial predictions of weak ocular irritation in a BCOP assay.
  2. 02 Mascara products containing this concentration were predicted to be practically non-irritating in HET-CAM assays.
  3. 03 A 1-week use study of mascara with this concentration reported no adverse reactions.
  4. 04 Mascara at this concentration was concluded to be appropriate for consumer use following a human patch test and an EpiOcular assay.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Quaternium-90 Bentonite is a functional ingredient primarily used for rheological control and formulation stability, not for direct skin benefits that would necessitate a specific 'dusted' concentration threshold.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal performance is achieved in low- to medium-polar organic liquids such as Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Isododecane, or Castor Oil, owing to its very low water solubility (<0.04 g/L at 20°C).

Synergies

  • Oil-based emollients and solvents
  • Powdered pigments for suspension

Safety

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
6.1%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded Quaternium-90 Bentonite is safe in cosmetics under current use and concentration practices when formulated to be non-irritating. Reported maximum use concentrations are up to 6.1% in mascara and lipstick, and 2.2% in face powder.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

Quaternium-90 Bentonite is a valuable formulation aid, crucial for achieving stable, well-textured oil-based and color cosmetic products, with a low risk of irritation and comedogenicity.


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