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Moumoujus

QUATERNIUM-90.

Valuable / ANTISTATIC

Quaternium-90 is a versatile formulating agent, primarily utilized as a clay derivative (e.g., Bentonite, Montmorillonite, Sepiolite) to precisely control product viscosity and enhance formulation stability. It is integral for achieving desired textures and ensuring the uniform dispersion of components within both oil-based and emulsion systems.

Summary

Viscosity Controlling Agent Emulsion Stabilizer Thickening Agent Suspending Agent (Pigments) Adhesion Enhancer Wear Time Extender Matte Finish Provider

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning predominantly as a viscosity controlling agent and emulsion stabilizer, Quaternium-90 modifies product consistency to prevent the separation of immiscible liquids. In oil-based formulations, it acts as a thickening clay, imparting a matte finish, maintaining pigment suspension, and significantly extending the wear time and adhesion of cosmetic products. Its efficacy is rooted in its structure as a quaternary ammonium compound combined with clay minerals, which influences the rheological properties of the product.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.8–12%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In mascara and lipstick, Quaternium-90 Bentonite at concentrations up to 6.1% effectively controls viscosity and stabilizes the formulation.
  2. 02 Quaternium-90 Bentonite, at concentrations up to 2.2%, has been shown to stabilize face powder formulations and control viscosity.
  3. 03 For leave-on products, Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite at up to 0.8% and Quaternium-90 Sepiolite at up to 3.2% maintain desired viscosity and formulation stability.
  4. 04 As a thickening clay (Quaternium-90 Sepiolite and Montmorillonite) in anhydrous products, typical concentrations of 1-3% (up to 12% if used as the sole thickener) improve adhesion, wear time, and pigment suspension.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Quaternium-90 is a functional ingredient typically integrated into cosmetic formulations to impart specific rheological properties. It is not an active ingredient applied directly to the skin as a powder for its inherent skin benefits, thus the concept of 'dusting' is not applicable in its common use.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient, particularly its Sepiolite and Montmorillonite forms, is oil-soluble and insoluble in water. It requires high shear mixing for activation when added to heated oil (typically 55–60°C) and is recommended for use with low- to medium-polar organic liquids.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
6.1%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers alkonium clay ingredients, including Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Montmorillonite, and Sepiolite, safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. Maximum reported concentrations vary by specific form and product type: up to 6.1% for bentonite in mascara and lipstick, 2.2% in face powder; up to 0.8% for montmorillonite in leave-on products; and up to 3.2% for sepiolite in leave-on products. While some applications for thickening clays report usage up to 12%, specific CIR limits apply to certain forms. No specific SCCS opinion was found. As a cosmetic excipient, its safety is covered under general FDA cosmetic regulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Quaternium-90 is a valuable formulating agent, critical for achieving precise product textures, enhancing stability, and optimizing the performance of various cosmetic and skincare emulsions and anhydrous systems.

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