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PSEUDOZYMA EPICOLA/SOYBEAN FLOUR/APRICOT KERNEL OIL/OLIVE FRUIT OIL/SWEET ALMOND OIL/SUNFLOWER SEED OIL/LICORICE ROOT EXTRACT FERMENT EXTRACT FILTRATE.

Valuable / EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

This unique fermented extract filtrate harnesses the power of Pseudozyma epicola to transform a blend of nourishing oils and licorice root extract. The specialized fermentation process enhances bioavailability and introduces new beneficial compounds, delivering multi-functional benefits for skin health and product stability.

emulsion stabilising moisturizer/humectant skin conditioning skin protecting hair conditioning anti-inflammatory antibacterial wound-healing anti-melanogenic antioxidant anti-sebum anti-irritation

Science

This ingredient is a meticulously prepared filtrate derived from the fermentation of soybean flour, apricot kernel oil, olive fruit oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower seed oil, and licorice root extract, facilitated by the Pseudozyma epicola microorganism. This biotechnological process is designed to break down larger substrates into smaller, more bioavailable molecules, simultaneously increasing the concentration of beneficial phytochemicals. This molecular transformation results in enhanced biological activities, including significant moisturizing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-sebum, and anti-irritation effects. By increasing beneficial free fatty acid values, it also contributes to improved skin feeling, absorption, and overall compatibility, while effectively attracting water to the skin's upper layers and neutralizing free radicals.


Research

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This fermented extract is known to promote the emulsification process, thereby improving the stability and overall shelf life of cosmetic emulsions. The inherent nature of fermentation technology also contributes to enhanced stability and bioactivity of the ingredient itself.


Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not conducted a specific review on this complex fermented ingredient. However, individual components like Sweet Almond Oil have been assessed as safe for topical application, with concentrations up to 25% or even 100% (with minor irritation observed at 100%). Formulations containing 2% Sweet Almond Meal were found to be practically non-irritating and non-sensitizing. While EWG Skin Deep indicates low concern for cancer and low-moderate concerns for allergies/immunotoxicity and developmental/reproductive toxicity, the latter is specifically linked to the Licorice Root Extract component. Both INCI Beauty and SkinSAFE classify this ingredient favorably, with SkinSAFE listing it as 'Teen SAFE' and 'Irritant Free', suggesting a generally good safety profile in finished products.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

This multi-functional fermented extract offers significant moisturizing, antioxidant, and protective benefits across all skin types, while also enhancing emulsion stability in formulations.


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