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POTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZINATE.

Valuable CAS 68039-19-0 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A potent derivative of licorice root, Potassium Glycyrrhizinate is a multi-functional ingredient known for its exceptional anti-inflammatory, soothing, and hydrating properties. It actively calms irritated skin, reduces redness, and enhances the skin's moisture barrier for improved suppleness.

Soothing Anti-inflammatory Humectant Sebum Regulating Skin-conditioning Antiallergic Wound healing

Science

Potassium Glycyrrhizinate acts as a powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic agent through several key mechanisms. It inhibits the hyaluronidase enzyme, which helps prevent the breakdown of hyaluronic acid, thereby enhancing skin hydration, elasticity, and volume. Furthermore, it blocks Nuclear Factor-kappa B (NF-κB) signaling, a central pathway regulating inflammatory gene expression, leading to a reduction in inflammatory markers, redness, swelling, and pain. It also modulates the expression of both pro-inflammatory (e.g., Tnf-α, Cox-2) and anti-inflammatory (e.g., Il-10) cytokines, and inhibits enzymes like phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase, reducing the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as prostaglandins and leukotrienes. These actions collectively promote tissue regeneration and re-epithelialization.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–2%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In a study on skin wound healing in rats, a 2% gel cream significantly decreased inflammatory exudate, increased granulation tissue, enhanced re-epithelization, promoted total collagen synthesis, reduced pro-inflammatory cytokines (Tnf-α, Cox-2, Il-8, Irak-2, Nf-kB, Il-1), and increased anti-inflammatory cytokine (Il-10) expression.
  2. 02 Effective even at low concentrations, typically incorporated at levels between 0.05% and 2% in finished products for anti-irritancy benefits. Common use levels in cosmetics are 0.1-0.5%, with daily skincare products often utilizing 0.2-1.0%.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

No data available to suggest common dusting concerns or specific dusting thresholds.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Potassium Glycyrrhizinate is chemically exceptionally stable, with decomposition occurring only when heated above 100 degrees Celsius for extended periods. It exhibits good temperature stability and is hygroscopic. Care should be taken as it forms a gel in aqueous solutions below pH 4 when mineral acids are present.

Conflicts

  • Oxidizing agents
  • Mineral acids (can cause gel formation below pH 4)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Potassium Glycyrrhizinate is safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, phototoxic agent, or photosensitizer. Topical application is poorly absorbed through the skin, and it generally exhibits low irritation in leave-on skincare products. The FDA recognizes licorice and its derivatives as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS).


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

Potassium Glycyrrhizinate is a highly valuable ingredient for its powerful anti-inflammatory, soothing, and hydrating properties, making it an excellent choice for a wide range of skin concerns and types.


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