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POTASSIUM COCOYL (ARGININE/GLUTAMIC ACID/ISOLEUCINE/LEUCINE/LYSINE/PHENYLALANINE/PROLINE/THREONINE/VALINE).

Valuable / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

This ingredient is a potassium salt formed from coconut fatty acid and a precise blend of nine amino acids. It functions as a gentle, conditioning surfactant, simultaneously delivering the hydrating and barrier-supporting benefits of its amino acid components to the skin.

Surfactant/Cleansing Skin conditioning Hair conditioning Humectant

Science

As a primary surfactant, this compound provides effective yet gentle cleansing by reducing surface tension. Its unique composition includes a complex of amino acids—arginine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, and valine—which mimic and augment the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). These NMFs are critical for maintaining the skin's intrinsic moisture barrier, significantly improving hydration levels, and actively preventing transepidermal water loss. Furthermore, these amino acids support the biosynthesis of key structural proteins like collagen and elastin, contributing to enhanced skin elasticity and firmness. Arginine specifically aids in collagen synthesis and wound healing, while threonine is indispensable for the structural integrity of both collagen and elastin.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

No data available to indicate this ingredient is commonly associated with cosmetic dusting concerns.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Specific optimal pH ranges or detailed stability data for this exact ingredient were not found in the available research. However, the stability of individual amino acids, which are components of this ingredient, can be influenced by varying pH levels due to their distinct pKa and pI values.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel has determined that alpha-amino acids are safe for use in cosmetics. The panel further affirmed the safety of amino acid alkyl amides, the broader class to which this ingredient belongs, under current industry practices and concentrations, provided that formulations are created to be non-irritating. The FDA classifies L-amino acids as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for direct food additives.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

This ingredient offers a dual benefit as a gentle, low-irritancy cleansing agent and a potent skin conditioner, leveraging its amino acid complex to enhance hydration, support barrier function, and promote skin elasticity.


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